Sri Lanka 2011 - Elephants and Adventures
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After a couple of years being over cautious in the travel stakes we decided to go all out and head on another adventure. After months of research and seeking reasonable flights we began to book things in the November.
Oman Air from Heathrow to Colombo via Muscat were offering an amazing price of £400 per person, the only compromise was a lengthy layover in Muscat of 17 hours. We took the plunge. I had found a guide based in Sri Lanka through Trip Advisor by asking for some personal recommendations by users. A local lady agreed to meet us in Newcastle and share details of her driver/guide. We got in touch with Shakeer Hussein via email and with a lot of back and forth made arrangements for our trip. We had booked 5 nights in a villa in a little town called Balapitaya, an hour north of the popular resort of Hikkaduwa. We would then travel for 9 nights with Shakeer on a tour around the island before returning for a week in the villa. The villa (Villa Dralion) was owned by a couple from Portsmouth who had retired to Sri Lanka. The villa was great for the 4 of us, had a private pool and 2 air con bedrooms. http://www.homeaway.co.uk/p458511#summary I believe the property is still renting though it is up for sale. Someone looking to retire or get away from it all could snatch a real bargain home with an attached rental property if they act quickly. Read about our trip below ... |
Well I have found the full transcript of my journal from Sri Lanka!
I have pasted the full transcript here, it is unedited for now so apologies for any bad language that may have slipped in. I will endeavour to read through and edit all 26 pages asap.
Summer 2011 Lockey Family Holiday to Sri Lanka
Day 1 of the mammoth holiday
1.00pm we left Shotley Villa East for the drive down to Heathrow. Despite the dire warnings of Air Show traffic near Durham and the gridlock around the cricket at Nottingham things progressed as planned. A quick toilet/snack stop near Wakefield, another around Luton and we arrived at Heathrow a full 75mins ahead of schedule! Trust in the Lockster’s planning I thought to myself. Though to be fair traffic was far lighter than I had imagined it would be. Only the three separate average speed zones had given any cause for less frenzied progress.
We left the car in the Radisson Hotel and ever the culture vultures we popped next door for a McDonalds. The guy from Sky Park came for the car and arranged to drop us at the terminal in his mini bus, rather nice of him I thought as it saved us a tenner on the Heathrow bus. He was even hesitant to take the fiver tip I gave him.
Once in the terminal things kicked into gear quickly. Despite a slow check in, trying not to listen to carefully to the argument that blocked one of the 3 desks, we were soon through passport control. I think the poor family arguing about their checked luggage were left with a hefty bill, rightly so mind, they had 7 suitcases weighing 142kg between 5 of them, then some pretty hefty hand luggage on top of that. No doubt smuggling gallons of whisky into the Middle East! Managed to buy 2 sets of headphones, a book for Sam and one for Frankie while waiting for the flight. Sid was in the land of DS so said very little during the wait to board.
The plane was nice, the staff seemed friendly and the in flight entertainment was top notch. Latest films (we didn’t get to watch any mind), games, kids stuff, even the internet at $29.95 for 28MB of download! I wasn’t tempted as I’m not sure there’d be that much of interest on the SMB, well nowt worth the neck end of £20! Sid has played every game imaginable on the console; it’s just his cup of tea. He’d rather play than sleep I imagine. Did manage to set up a playlist to listen to while dozing on the plane. I call it dozing but really it was sitting still with my eyes shut. Chose some soothing tunes for the playlist, Mumford and Sons, Florence, White Stripes, Strokes, Elbow and best of all Queens Greatest Hits. Sid wasn’t happy and didn’t sleep until we put him on the floor under the seats with a blanket. Surprisingly he was straight off to kip without a moment’s hesitation. Frank on the other hand, well he conked out straight away and never budged even when I lifted him up and chucked him across the row of 4 seats to Sam. It’s probably a good moment now to point out how well behaved the boys have been. It’s been a tough first 15 hours since we left home and no doubt the next 24 hours will only be tougher what with all the waiting around in Muscat, another night flight and then a 3-4 hour van ride to the villa. If we get through it without frayed tempers then we’ve done amazingly well. Particularly as the Stattmeister hasn’t really slept, if any of us needed sleep it’s the missus. She’ll be like the Honey Monster with a thorn in his paw later unless this lounge has nice sleep pods. Little more than an hour till we land in Muscat, its 5.05am UK time but 8.05am in Muscat, doesn’t make me feel any less knackered, can’t even face the cheese salad sandwich I’ve been provided for brekkie. Though the fruit and yoghurt were nice. Frank is still asleep so he at least has had about 5 hours, Sid and Sam maybe half that, me I’m more machine than man, sleep is not a requirement for this unit!!
I’m knackered!
Day 2 Muscat, Oman (well the airport anyway)
The fabled Majan lounge as advertised on the Oman Air website appears to be ‘undergoing refurbishment’ so our plans of sleep, freshening up and maybe having a snack and drink are dashed; temporarily at least as Statt isn’t looking in the mood to accept this situation. She quickly pops along to the Oman Air 1st Class Lounge, no doubt demanding a team of workers arrive to finish the refurbishment by midday. She soon returns with directions to the Plaza Lounge so we head there. 35 rials for us all to enter; 15 each for us, half price for Sid and free for Frankie, not sure how that comes to 35 but never mind. Sid nabs the only available snooze booth but doesn’t settle to sleep. In the meanwhile I fashion some sort of secure contraption from 3 seats for Frankie to sleep in, within 10 minutes he’s flat out and doesn’t rise for another 4 hours. Sid soon emerges having not slept so Sam quickly commandeers the booths for the next 3 hours. While she is getting her much needed beauty sleep I try out some of the ‘free’ snacks and drinks; muck about on the net and watch Sid play on his DS. Eventually I make up another makeshift chair bed contraption and hop in using Sid’s ‘Softee’, a jumper and the net book case to make a pillow, flat out for another hour! I’m beginning to feel like a bit of a weakling, that’s at least 2 hours sleep I’ll have done in the last 36, machine “pah!”
Once Sam emerges looking all glamorous and rested we try to rouse the beast Frankie, he takes some convincing that its morning but eventually he rises. He and Sid tuck into some pasta, rice, chicken concoction followed by water melon and, at Sid’s insistence, some cake. As our 5 hours is rapidly running out we decide to avail ourselves of the shower facilities. Sam pops in first with Frankie while Sid and I update the journal. Only another 9 hours to keep occupied before we fly out to Sri Lanka. Once again I have to say the boys have done brilliantly, I know adults who would have moaned and whinged about the situation we’ve dragged them through but bar a little tiredness and grumpiness we’ve seen nothing but fun and games from them both. We have persuaded Sid that he’s sleeping on the plane floor again though! He really need to get more sleep, I think he’s done only slightly more than I have, he’s a machine at seven! The Stayawakeinator! Got to say I bet Tom Hanks character wouldn’t have stayed in Seeb International Airport like he did in that film where the guy lived in JFK or somewhere. It’s like Newcastle Airport without the Burger King!
Well we left the lounge after 6 hours before we were kicked out having only paid for 5 hours in there. We’d all had a shower and a change of pants so the Lockey clan smell fresh. Followed the signs for children’s play area; it was a 10x10 soft play. The boys ran around so I sat down on the side, woke up 80 minutes later in a pool of drool lying on the side barrier, serious malfunction. I wasn’t alone in breaking down, I rose from my soggy bed to see Sid once again flat out on the floor covered by the inevitable GAP sweatshirt as a blanket, he rose 3 hours later in a state of complete confusion and bewilderment. Frank is like Duracell boy, he’ll end up a copper top like his mother, and he’s never stopped since his snooze in the lounge. Sam, Sid and I had a Subway for tea, Frankie ever the rebel insisted on something from the Omani version of McDonalds – chicken strips and chips with free milk, ice cream and toy frog (very middle eastern). He got the best deal, the lady put honey mustard sauce on Sam’s sarnie unbidden and only a timely intervention by me avoided the heinous addition of cucumber to my turkey breast special. Just to annoy the Stattster it was 1 rial 700 wobbledobs or whatever they use below a rial, she thinks I’m obsessed with prices! Franks mega meal deal only 1 rial 400. I’d got 10 rials out of the ATM which I think is about £16 but to be honest I haven’t the foggiest. We’ve spent 6 hours by the soft play; the boys have made pals with a couple of lads from London who are travelling to Sri Lanka with their Tamil parents. They are called Sakrash and Kalash and are 6 years old. They’ve been full of the dangers of a hairy caterpillar that lives in Sri Lanka, sounds delightful.
Anyway it appears our flight is now stopping off at Male in the Maldives, the schedule doesn’t mention this but all the announcements and departure boards say it does so we’ll see. Final stage of the gigantic journey is about to commence, let’s hope for just a little more sleep on the plane tonight. Sure we’ll be fine, just need to boot Sid out his seat and onto the floor. Sam is a whole different kettle of fish, not sure what will help her get through this, and tiredness and not eating properly are her two Achilles heels, looks like I’ve struck a blow at both. Teamwork is helping us all get through it though. Travel with this family is definitely the way to go in the future.
Into the night part two and onward into day three
Well we’ve left Oman at last. We have a nice 3 hour 50 minute flight to look forward to. We wait on the tarmac in Oman for an hour, the plane is missing about 50 passengers from a connecting flight due in from Frankfurt, the silly sausages eventually board and we head off. The boys collapse asleep on Sam, I watch Thor – w.t.f. is that all about? One of the most pointless films I’ve seen for years, a real turkey. A little shut eye then we are landing. We soon get through passport control, collect our bags then out into the real world again. Lasantha is there waiting for us with a little sign, he takes us outside to the kerb then dashes off for his minibus. The traffic around Colombo is horrendous; we cover maybe 30 miles in 2 hours. We are all zombiefied in the bus and drop off sprawled all over the seats. About 3 hours into the journey I try to shake myself awake and I am gradually joined by the rest of the family. Lasantha stops at an ATM then a bit later the supermarket so we can get some essentials. The road down from Colombo is one pretty endless sprawl of buildings at the roadside. They comprise various shops, businesses and well other buildings that sell stuff but aren’t really shops. Litter is a big thing here, it’s everywhere! A real culture shock!
We arrive at the bungalow; it’s just off the main road up a little track. It’s a pretty sizeable place, 3 double and 2 singles. We’ve been set up in the 2 doubles with air conditioning, nice. Marilyn and John seem lovely and welcoming. Their house is a huge place, some retirement home. We have quick showers then a dip in the pool. Tiredness soon hits me and I go for a lie down only to wake up two and a half hours later. As I wake, Sam collapses into bed for a couple of hours. Around 4pm Frank passes out in front of Cartoon Network, we try to rouse him a couple of times but he’s out for the count and sleeps through until the next morning at 8am when he joins us only to wee down Sam’s back, tee hee. He did wake Sid around 3.30 am to vomit some pool water up then crashed again. Sam, Sid and I had ordered some Chinese food from the local takeaway. Fish and chips, chilli pork, sweet and sour chicken and some noodles. The tuk tuk guy the villa use got it for us and collected 6 big bottles of beer. He’d rung to say “No Prawn!” so we changed the order to chicken. The mountainous delivery arrived, the portions were huge. No fish and chips though, Sid was gutted but tried the noodles before asking for Coco Pops. Can’t blame him really the noodles were spicy but really tasty. Sam and I tried our best to devour the prawn, chicken and pork dishes but did well to manage maybe half. You may notice I said prawn? It was the fish they didn’t have so we’d ordered a needless Chinese dish. Never mind things get lost in translation no doubt. By 10pm we were all pooped and hit the sack for our 11 hour sleep-a-thon, barring Franks mini vomit incident all slept sweetly. Sid eventually rose at quarter to ten! Even that machine needs some sleep I guess.
Day 4 Balapitiya beckons
After a hearty breakfast of toast, cereal and juice we were ready for a little wander, so set off about 11am to see the sights.
Armed with the ‘dog stick’ at Marilyn’s suggestion we set off along the road towards the ‘Ice Age’ hotel. Progress was slower than expected as every local wanted to stop us to say hello. Some stick thin fellow even crossed the road, like in Death Race 2000 to shake our hands and introduce himself as ‘Siri’. Once we had made our excuses and left we returned to the beach quest. Unfortunately we missed the turning and wandered onto the litter strewn beach where the hotel was. The sea was pounding the beach. Realising we should head to the right we attempted to cross some rocky coastline in the direction of the beach we had set out for. We soon realised that this expedition was doomed to failure, but only after a good soaking from a wave crashing up over the rocks and almost losing a child. As we turned back our stick thin saviour materialised from the trees. Siri now told us he was both local lobster fisherman and lifeguard; it was his duty to guide us to the beach we sought. A hot sweaty trek along the jungle road led us through more litter strewn jungle, just use the bin, across a garden of sorts after passing a huge lizard and onto the beach by the river. Siri introduced us to the lobster fisherman he worked with, they spoke little English. We walked along the beach to the river mouth where several locals were having a refreshing dip in the water. Several dead jellyfish were washed up and floating by but we braved the water for a paddle. It was warm like the bath and we soon saw the attraction. After a while I became a little suspicious of the guys just floating in the water, I soon spotted the reason for their reluctance to chat of leave the water. Some discarded shorts and tops soon had me realising they were obviously butt naked and too embarrassed to leave the water. I suggested to Sam we move off towards home and sure enough the guys scampered out of the water once we left to hide behind their boat and dress. Siri stopped off by his house on the way home to give us some King Coconut to drink. He grew them in his garden and was very keen we try one. It tasted like melon juice but was fairly warm. The boys weren’t keen so half was handed back. As usual that awkward moment arose, this guy would obviously want some recompense for his time and coconut, I offered, he looked embarrassed and asked for something for the kids, I looked in the wallet and though “You’re not getting £6 so it’s the 30p worth of rupees I’ve been saving up”. Not sure if he was disappointed or not, to be honest it’s tough we didn’t ask for his help or skanky warm coconut anyhow.
Once back in the villa it was quick lunch of bacon and egg, oh how Sri Lankan we are. Then our first tuk tuk trip with Sirimal, the driver that the owners recommended we use. We later found out they had bought him the tuk tuk and he offered more competitive rates to their guests. He’s kind of their slave I reckon, though the clever bugger even charges them if they want a lift somewhere! Sirimal is a lovely fellow, he took us to buy a sim card for the mobile (5 hours later it’s still not registered), to his mates fruit stall for apples, oranges, mango, mini bananas, wood apple and the chance to taste some hairy thing that looked like an eye ball and then to the supermarket. It’s kind of like a cross between a Spar and a Lidl just with much crapper and dustier stuff. Though the prices are more Marks and Spencer, five carrier bags costing the neck end of £35.
We pooled it after that and chilled till it was time to head out for the night. During the afternoon Frankie screamed out loud as he was first to spot a monkey! They were pretty big boys leaping across the trees. The boys had made Marilyn a birthday card so they dropped that over while we waited for Sirimal. His 10 minutes was more like 25 but I guess things are relaxed round here; it did give us the chance to see some fire flies. He took us to Hikkaduwa, it seemed a long way so both the lads caught some nap time. Sirimal suggested the restaurant ‘Refresh’, it was right by the sea and had loads of fresh sea fish alive to pick out a tank. The boys wanted pizza (1600 rupees!) we had Sri Lankan curry, it came with a huge plate of rice and 6 smaller bowls of dishes, curries were fish, chicken and pineapple, then there was spinach and garlic, some spice potatoes, daal and coconut sambol. For 950 rupees it was gorgeous. The beers flowed and the boys swigged milkshakes and we all shared banana pancakes with ice cream. Then it was back home in the tuk tuk. We headed to bed despite the invite for a drink from our hosts.
Day 5 Chillin by the pool
With the dawn chorus of Sam’s snortling I awoke at 7am. Took little one for the bathroom visit he’d refused last night then snuggled him back into bed. Poor little fella was freezing lying with no covers and the AC on full pelt. He snuggled in and was instantly back asleep. Showered all alone while the family slumbered on, lazy devils the lot of them. Has to be the first time in years I’ve been first up and raring to go. Prepared a nice family breakfast of toast, cereal and lovely cup of tea for Statty, must remember to polish my halo later.
Over breakfast we decided to have a day chilling by the pool. Sam spoke to Sirimal about the sim card still not working, he said he’d sort it. Swam and splashed around with the boys, relaxed in side after lunch for a while and did very little. Sirimal called back but the message was lost in translation. Either the sim can’t be registered and we need a new one or it’s because we used his ID and we need to take ours along as he already has 5 sims registered. Who knows!
More pool antics and relaxing in the afternoon then cooked tea in and settled into watch Tooth Fairy with the boys. We spoke to Shakeer tonight; he seemed relieved to hear from us eventually. We’ve arranged to go out for dinner with him tomorrow night to discuss the tour. Also off to sort the sim card with Sirimal.
Even Sam has chilled today, she shared a beer before 6pm, decadence! Holiday mode has certainly taken over. Even discussed how much Sam would like a place somewhere tropical!
Day 6 – Madu Ganga and beyond!
We spent the morning by the pool again then a Sri Lankan lunch of fish fingers and chips! We were being collected at 3pm for a trip up the nearby Madu Ganga River. Apparently Madu means island and this river has 56 islands in it. The trip was run by the brother of Lalith who organised our airport collection, he is called Udul (he’s like a skinny Lalith and we later discovered he has a blue scooter as opposed to a red one like Lalith). He runs an Ayurveda Treatment place by the river and also has 2 boats for tours. He sent us on a trip in our own boat with a young guy named Lasantha, he looked like an Asian version of my brothers friend Michael Proctor, well his lugs did anyway. Udul charges 2000 rupees for the boat for a 2 hour trip as opposed to 1800 per person with some of the other companies. We set off upstream to be accosted by two kids in a canoe with a ‘pet’ monkey. For a fee we got to hold the monkey, Sam and Sid did the honours and said he was lovely. We drove through the mangroves for a while then suddenly the river opens out into an enormous lake. We whizzed around a while then headed for our first island treat – Cinnamon Island. Basically it’s an old bloke and his family who live in poverty in a crappy little hut. They spend all day peeling the bark off cinnamon trees and making those cinnamon rolls to dry out and sell. They come in lengths up to 1 metre long. All of this cinnamon is exported and Sri Lanka is famous for it as it is all hand-made not done using machines. Obviously he wanted to sell us, cinnamon oil, powder and sticks but at 300 rupees (£1.85 a pop) it seemed rude not to. We left with 50 bottles of oil, 3 tonnes of powder and 8000 sticks! Or something like that!
Next up was our trip with the cunning Bhuddist Monk. He was charming and showed us round his temple and stuff then asked nicely for a donation. We fell for the trick of giving 1000 rupees (£6) as everyone else seemed to have done the same. As I read the donation book though it became apparent that someone, and I’m not pointing any fingers here, had added a zero to every donation. Some were even in different coloured pen! Karma will no doubt step in and we will meet the monk again as a dung beetle or pile of dog shit.
The final stop off was the fish farm. To be fair it was also the best. The boys balanced precariously on the gangways floating above the river throwing fish food into the Koi Carp and Tilapia that were being reared there. Next we all had a fish foot massage, lovely, sticking my feet into a cage of 45000 tiny little tilapia isn’t top of the wish list but to be honest it was fun and very tickly. The whole family had a go as well.
We returned to the dock after some expert boat captaincy by my good self. It was nice to be in charge of the speed boat and to be honest I reckon I was a much better driver than the real one! As we pulled up we spotted a huge water monitor swimming across the river, well over 1m long! He was cool.
We headed home sharp for about 6pm as tonight we met Shakeer for the first time. He arrived at 7.30pm with a big bunch of flowers for Sam and a pineapple for the boys. Him and his driver are Muslim so we headed off for a meal, he’d not eaten since 6am due to it being Ramadan, he must have been starving. Not sure the Lockey clan could go 14 hours without some grub.
We headed to his home town of Aluthgama about 30 minutes drive away. He took us to a Hotel called La Luna for some food, we were the only customers! The waiter arrived with some raw prawns to show us and some fish. Shakeer bless him must’ve been clamming for food by then as ordered us £25 worth of jumbo prawns and a big fish for the boys. They arrived with chips, salad and rice not long afterwards. As ever the boys decided not to each much so we all tucked into the grub. The portion was at least 60 king prawns on a huge platter covered with maybe a whole bulb of garlic. Realising they’d over done it with the vampire killer Shakeer insisted on some sauce, garlic sauce! Without doubt they were some of the finest prawns we had tasted, the sauce was divine. I doubt we’ll be bitten by the roaming un-dead for at least a week. It was a late night as we tucked the boys up at about 11.30 pm. Only then did Shakeer drop the bombshell that Saturday’s pick up was 6am!
Day 7 Time to chill once again, oh and pack!
Morning was pool time again, though we were rudely interrupted by the heaviest downpour ever! The whole garden was under water but this disappeared within an hour of the rain stopping giving us time for some more swimming. We headed to the one and only restaurant in Balapitiya at about 4.30pm, its five minutes walk away by the river docks. We arrived and ordered some food; it was so cheap we went for starters as well. After 40 minutes the tummy was feeling hungry. The waiter came and told us no spring rolls (Sam’s starter) would she like the same as me or prawn cocktail? Another 20 minutes then the bombshell that there was actually none of mine either! Never mind our Sri Lankan rice and curry wasn’t long, Sam had hers medium and I went for the full Sri Lankan heat. Spicy and nice! Frank wolfed down chicken spaghetti and Sid was adventurous with a cheese omelette and chips. We all had ice cream for afters and enjoyed it. The bill was only 3000 rupees, a third of last night’s Prawn extravaganza. The walk home was eventful, it rained and the whole village stared as we walked through. We did get stopped by a mystery man on a blue scooter, it was Udul, how he thought we’d recognise him in a full face helmet?
Upon our return we had an eventful episode. As I sat relaxing on my throne, I heard a rattle and a shadow crept along the shower floor, suddenly a huge rat scampered out from the shower out the door towards the kitchen. Sam went for the cavalry of John and Marilyn while Sid and I armed only with the dog stick went in search. The rat scampered out of the kitchen as I searched bathroom number 2 only to be confronted by Sid stamping and shouting; it turned tail and set off back into the kitchen. We opened the back door ready to chase it out. I rattled my stick and it shot from behind the freezer into the passage but turned away from the door! Sid bless him was heroic and shooed the little vermin back my way, I whacked it with the stick against the wall then took aim for a mighty slap shot out the door! I think I enjoyed the Tooth Fairy a little too much. Just then the cavalry arrived. John fetched some big plugs for the shower drains so we’ll not get any more visits from Ratty we hope.
All packed now and off to bed for the next stage of our family adventure!
Day 8 We hit the road!
Up early at 5am, it’s like waking the dead with Frankie; he really isn’t a morning person. Sid opens his eyes and is wide awake; I don’t know how he does it. We munch on a few bits and pieces as we pack the last few things (or not as it later turned out). Marilyn and John were up with the larks to greet Shakeer as he arrived at 6am, no doubt looking to get the bungalow on his tourist radar. Once we are all loaded up we set off northwards. It’s going to be a six hour slog on the bus today. After a couple of hours Shakeer asks the driver Fosan to pull up at the side of the road. There’s a kind of hut with some plastic tables outside and some crazy looking locals. Apparently this is a pineapple farm. We see all the thousands of plants, each only fruits once and takes about 9 months. It’s not the season for them at the moment but the guy always has a few on the go. He chooses us a ripe one and passes it to the old crone with the machete. A few swift strokes of her lethal weapon and the pineapple’s served up in a bowl for us to try. Sid has been given a mini pineapple that he has christened Paul, strange child. As we finished the pineapple the old woman produces a yellow smooth fruit, we are told it is maracuya or passion fruit, it’s nothing like the wrinkly brown things you get in Tesco. Once cut in half it’s definitely a passion fruit, very tasty to eat with your fingers we are told so of course we oblige. Sid tried his first ever pineapple today but Frank wouldn’t try it!
We continue the journey through several towns careering between tuk tuks and buses and lorries. Eventually some dolly birds in Saris wave us down, I say dolly birds but I really mean fat middle aged ladies trying to look sexy (no not Sam!) They are selling cashew nuts fresh off the trees behind them. Sam and Shakeer get out to haggle, we end up with 3 bags and a bonus mini one for 500 rupees. Frank by now is hungry and proceeds to trough as many as he can.
Eventually after 6 hours of long travel we arrive in Dambulla where we are taken to lunch at a kind of hotel. As ever in Sri Lankan hotels it’s a buffet affair so Sam and I do our best to stick to the local dishes while the boys as usual make a fuss about everything. Sid makes up for this with his dessert eating, only Andrew Knighton could challenge this boy over pudding.
We are driven 10 minutes further to the Hotel Thilanka Spa where we are staying. The bus drops us off 200 metres from the door, some hike in this heat with the world’s biggest case. However help is at hand in the form of a bicycle taxi to take us the final step, for a tip of course! This hotel looks the business, modern, stylish, enormous pool and our room has a Jacuzzi. We have a couple of hours to spare before our first activity so hit the pool.
After a quick splash we are off to see Sigiriya or Lion Rock a two thousand year old palace/monastery build around and on a really high rock. I’d try to describe it but couldn’t do it justice, look at the photos. It’s an amazing feat of engineering that’s for sure. We climb almost to the top before Frankie and Sam quit on us, Sid and I are determined to make it up all 1320 steps. Sweating and breathing heavily I get to the top to see Sid dancing round with some monkeys, where does he get his energy? The views are simple stunning, particularly as it is almost sunset. Not surprisingly it’s a bit quicker getting down than up and we are soon back aboard the bus with Fosan and back to the hotel. Showers then off for the buffet dinner. We even manage to skype home so the boys can speak to Jim and Joyce, they use all 450 rupees worth of the connection but they all seemed to enjoy the chance to gossip.
We are heading out at 9.30am tomorrow so off to sleep we go.
Day 9 Our first meeting with Buddha and Elephants
After breakfast we leave the Thilanka Hotel and switch to our nearby second hotel the Perwerhara Village, it’s only 20/30 minutes away. We stop at the Cave Temples of Dambulla on the way. Here is the highest Buddha in the world, an enormous 30 metre high golden effigy of Buddha teaching. We get asked for photos off a monk, though it was supposed to be the other way around? The once again we climb the steps, then some more, then finally we are half way and only another few hundred steps to go. Shoes off, into the temple we head. A lovely old fellow takes us round explaining everything about the Buddha and the way of life and the history of the caves. It’s interesting but the boys soon lose their focus and begin to drift. It was a nice place to visit, some great paintings in the caves.
Our second hotel isn’t quite as plush as the first but the room is fine and the lunch by the pool goes down nicely. We later find out they are mid renovation before the season begins in October, good luck guys there’s still plenty to do. The lunch by the pool is nice and after this Frank finds a huge land monitor lizard in the garden. Next we spot a multi coloured chameleon on top of the roof, he was red, yellow, green and blue.
This afternoon we are off on safari to see elephants. How many we ask? “Wait see!” replies Shakeer. Well in short we saw over 100 elephants while being bumped and thrown around in the back of some long wheel base Tata 4 wheel drive vehicle. Again the photos will explain the amazing sights.
We returned home from the safari dusty and thirsty. We all showered in the lovely cool shower, no hot water tonight it seems, and then off for our evening meal. The beer is cold here thank goodness as last nights the semi chilled ale wasn’t the best. Again the food is a buffet mix of western and Sri Lankan, though the hotel is maybe a little less impressive the food is certainly a bit better. We have a visitor in bed this evening, not a bug or a beastie but Sid decides top to tail isn’t his cup of tea so spends the night wiggling between us.
Day 10 Spice to see you to see you spice!
We leave the hotel after breakfast with a stroke of good fortune, Sam manages to get 2100 rupees change for a 1000 rupee note! We drive a while until we reach a ‘Spice Garden’, home of all things magical and Ayurvedic. A nice man takes us around the garden showing us all the different trees and explaining their uses in Ayurvedic medicine. We get to sniff, feel and be smothered in a whole concoction of treatments as we go; including having half my hand de-haired by some magical formula. We could get some for my back or Sam’s chin perhaps! At the end of the tour we are taken to a hut and some things are explained to us in greater detail, then we are surprised by the arrival of a birthday cake!!! Shakeer and Sam have been plotting I suspect. Next up was a free massage for the 4 of us, very relaxing if a little painful at times. We were going to buy some of the products on offer but the prices were ridiculous. Some of the treatments were about £80, this for something grown in the garden with no scientific proof it works.
We headed onwards to Kandy, home of the Perahera festival. The room was huge in the Serene Gardens, with Happy Birthday in flowers on the bed. A nice touch from Shakeer! Shakeer asked us to meet him at 4.45pm to go to the dance show. We headed there for an hour of Sri Lankan dancing then the best bit, the fire walkers! The boys were impressed. Straight from here we headed into the Perahera festival. Well me and the boys did, Sam had come in a vest and as our reserved seats (5000 rupees) were in the Tooth Temple she wasn’t getting in. We left her outside to go and get changed but she soon emerged next to us sporting a rather fetching shawl. Some enterprising local spotted her plight and offered her a scarf for 300 rupees. The festival was a feast of sights sounds and smells. The ninjas keeping the braziers alight to show the way were fearless, the dancers frenzied and the elephants majestic. Though 3 hours later we were tired out and drummed into submission. We returned to the hotel for a 10.30 pm evening meal then bed! A birthday to remember.
Day 12 The Elephants of Pinnawella and MEF
After a hearty pancake breakfast for the boys, Frankie ate 6, we headed out to see the elephants at Pinnewella Elephant Orphanage. We arrived at the village and walked down to the river. In front of us we saw 60 to 70 elephants all splashing about in the river. We sat with a drink in a restaurant overlooking the river while they cooled off. Little babies were splashing grown-ups and causing mischief. The odd one stumbled and fell into the water but seemed to enjoy the soaking. At the order from the mahouts the elephants all gathered and clambered out of the water to parade back up to the orphanage. It was a pretty amazing sight and the boys certainly enjoyed it. As we followed the procession up the middle of the village we stopped off to buy some ‘Poo Paper’, not want you might think! It’s paper made from the fibres found in the elephant poop, nice. We spent a little time in the orphanage watching the elephants, Sam managed to tip a guy 500 rupees instead of 50 to touch the elephants and have a photo taken. Everyone gathered by the feeding pen as 2 babies were given milk, there were hundreds of people and only 8 get to feed a baby. As ever Shakeer made sure one of the boys was chosen, Sid held the bottle of milk while the elephant swigged it back in maybe 10 seconds.
After this we took a short drive to the Millennium Elephant Foundation. This was an extra activity we’d asked for so it’s been only the second thing we’ve had to pay for. We went for the 30 minute experience for 3000 rupees (£18) each for the adults, we negotiated the boys in free. The allowed us time to wash an elephant in the river, just us and the elephant, armed with our coconut shells we gave him a darned good scrubbing. The boys were in their element, it was a really nice experience, the elephants are so big and powerful. After this we were given a little talk in the museum about the elephants of Asia. Next we all clambered about a large elephant for a ten minute ride, poor beast had to carry us all but seemed to manage ok, the only sign of displeasure was the flapping of ears to whack Frankie. After the foundation we stopped by the road for a snack of red bananas and water melon. We returned to Kandy to chill by the pool, chill being the operative word, the water was blinking freezing. We sampled the delights of the buffet for evening meal, a generally forgettable experience as with many of the buffets.
Day 13 Leaving Kandy? Standards fall.
After talking with Shakeer I was under the impression we would leave Kandy at a leisurely 10.30am to travel to our next hotel by the water falls just before Nuwara Eliya. Well that was the plan I’d found out later but Shakeer in his wisdom decided to show Sam some Batik and Wood Carving places. We left the hotel at 10.30am as planned for the 150 yard drive to the workshops, at 1pm we eventually left the workshops having spent over £100 on stuff, Sam once again showing her amazing ability to bankrupt us. We did get some good stuff but managed to avoid the 4 foot high wooden carved elephant, to be fair he was a little pricey at £3200, including the import and shipping. If we’d have had the money he’d no doubt be en route to Newcastle on a ship by now! Running late we eventually made the Botanical Gardens for a whistle stop tour, there was some really interesting stuff there and the guide was really interesting. After the gardens we went for lunch in a nearby hotel. Sam and I opted for the Sri Lankan set lunch or Dhall, Fish Curry, Brindal, Sambol, Veg Curry and Rice. Soup was included and Ice cream to follow, spicy and nice. The boys were more adventurous and went for a Goofy Burger with Bullseye and a Cheese Burger, what arrived wasn’t quite what they expected!
After lunch we set off upwards, climbing into the hills higher and higher. The roads were a series of switchbacks passing roadside waterfalls all the way. Eventually we reached the new Ramboda Road tunnel, build for free by the South Korean Government I was told in exchange for a deal to send all the used tyres there from Sri Lanka. Judging by the threadbare nature of most of the tyres I have seen the Sri Lankans aren’t sending much their way. Once through the tunnel we pulled over to transfer all the luggage and us into an estate car that took us down a very steep drive to the hotel. The Hotel Ramboda Falls certainly has the setting and the potential to be a really nice place, they’ve even installed a high tower to provide a glass lift down to the floors below reception, the lift has been open two weeks and created a great first impression. State of the art, sparkling clean and obviously a significant investment, we were thinking the hotel owners must be spending some money here to make sure it was worthy of its setting. Sadly the lift must have cost all the money as the family room ‘Rock View’ we were placed in was last decorated in 1982 judging by the dark wood and threadbare curtains. Still it was the biggest suite in the hotel with a separate lounge and two double beds, it also had a perfect view of the waterfall from the windows and balcony. We quickly dumped our stuff and set off for the waterfall along a treacherous muddy path, another area in need of some serious spending unless the aim is to kill of the guests and sell their stuff on Ebay? Eventually we reached the bottom despite the leeches doing their best to grab into Sam’s legs. It is a wonderful sight being stood below a huge waterfall, in the dry season you can climb right down to the pool at the bottom and shower under the falls, in wet season we would never have made it back. Several discarded flip flops were testament to those who has tried and failed.
We made the sweaty climb back to the hotel and sat down in the restaurant for a drink. My first beer for 3 days due to the festival in Kandy making the whole town dry, it was nectar. We pre-ordered dinner from the set menu, everyone opted for fish and chips to follow their spring rolls. After a shower and change we returned for our dinner. Not the best, the breaded fish was burned and the chips over done. We retired to our slightly dank room for the night.
Day 14 A short hop but a long climb
From Ramboda Falls to the next hotel was 15 kilometres Fosan the driver informed us in his broken English over breakfast. Breakfast was a limited affair but made up for last nights horror meal. The toast was thick and lightly done and the omelette was tasty. After our shuttle car crept up the hill never leaving first gear we set off along the main road for the short hop to our next hotel in Nuwara Eliya. Fifteen kilometres with a stop off at a tea factory, we left at 10am so would be there before lunch. The road climbed above the clouds as we weaved our way ever higher. On each side the road was surrounded by endless tea plantations, where Tamil women pick up to 10kg of the finest tea for only 40 rupees a kilo. A days hard graft earns them about £2.30 at the most. We roll into the car park of the Mackwoods Tea Factory. It was a pretty impressive colonial looking tea shop and sale room next to a large factory where the tea is processed. We drank fresh tea, no milk only sugar and ate chocolate cake, oh how very civilised. Next we were given a whistle stop tour of the factory, the processes involved explained clearly. It was an interesting insight into the way tea is made and it is surprising to see how natural a process it is.
Again we climbed higher still, the fields of the Mackwoods plantation stretching endlessly across the hillside. We peaked at only 6382 feet above sea level then followed the short descent into Nuwara Eliya. The town is known as Little England apparently because of the architecture and climate, there is even a golf club here. The town has the first post office built in Sri Lanka, a strange looking red and white brick affair but nevertheless impressive. There is apparently a large ex-pat community here due to the similarity to England and also lots of Sri Lankans visit here from the coast for respite from the heat. Shortly after arrival we sought respite from Shakeer and Fosan, they are lovely guys but sometimes it is nice to have a little time to do as you please. We snuck out of the Hotel Grosvenor only for Fosan to appear to accompany us into town, we insisted he stay and rest after driving, no doubt he’d be in bother later. We took a slow wander into town and visited the park, it was 60 rupees each for Sam and I and 30 rupees for Sid, a total cost of around 80p, double what the locals are charged but at least here they are honest about it and it’s clearly marked on the sign. The boys swung like apes and climbed and slid on the very 1970’s play equipment; I clearly remember some of the equipment being in Harperley Park when I was a kid. After we had braved the municipal toilets (a hole to do your jobs in inside a hut) we set off into the shopping area. We bought some crocodile bread and mystery biscuit/cake thing to munch on, both were pretty stale but it fought off the hunger till dinner time. After buying some nail clippers to remove our dragon like claws we set off back to the less than delightful Hotel Grosvenor. Part way back we heard the inevitable “Ey Frankie!!!” No doubt Fosan had been trawling the streets searching for us after a flea in his ear from Shakeer. Gratefully we hopped into the van for a lift up to the hotel. We didn’t dare shower before dinner as the bathroom was pretty grim, we’d all ordered chicken but didn’t hold out much hope of being satisfied. Surprisingly the French Onion Soup was tasty and the chicken was very tasty with lovely fresh veg (carrot, green beans and potato) followed by ice cream. Nothing too exciting but it satisfied our hunger and was far more edible than we had expected. As night fell it became quite chilly so we attempted to settle down for an early night. It was cold and the slightly grubby bed didn’t really lend itself to a good sleep, the noisy French neighbours also didn’t help as they totally ignored the fact that an adjoining door let all the noise through.
As an aside, ever since the massage and ‘balancing tea’ we had at the herb garden both me and Sam have been piddling none stop, maybe 20-30 times a day though it is slowly lessening. We have also both had pretty vivid dreams each night, tonight Sam recounted her Ramboda Falls experience where a ghostly apparition had floated around the room during the night! Pretty glad we didn’t buy anything now unless the sneaky little get put a hex or curse on us for being tight!
Day 15 To Ella and beyond
Today was supposed to be a short drive of around an hour, though time seems to have no real similarity to what we use in the UK as an hour can be between 50 minutes and 3 hours. After a pretty plain affair of omelette and toast with coffee and hot chocolate we, with some relief, checked out of the hotel and set off. We weren’t really interested in seeing much more of Nuwara Eliya so politely declined Shakeer’s attempts to get us to partake in some activity. After a 90 minute wiggly, bumpy drive across a road that was nowhere near being finished for another 18 months we arrived in Ella. Strangely we went to a completely different Hotel to the one Shakeer had e mailed me in our itinerary. We weren’t there long. The hotel had taken his booking but forgot to mention that there were no drivers rooms provided. The gaffer wasn’t happy and asked if we minded trying somewhere else. After a few unsuccessful attempts at other places he was looking a bit stressed. We suggested we had lunch while he tried some more. Went to the Dream Cafe in Ella, if you ever pass through try it, good pizza and desserts and very reasonable. Shakeer returned mid main course looking glum but by then we had come up with a plan. We suggested he try our next hotel in Tissa the Hibiscus Garden and try to get us in there for an extra night. We’d been talking and thought the idea of 2 nights somewhere to allow us to unpack properly and be a bit more settled would suit us. Plus my under crackers had been ‘drying’ unsuccessfully since Kandy. Thankfully Shakeer seemed quite taken with this idea, he must have liked where we were going next and he soon returned with news that we’d head there for 2 nights instead. It did mean another 1 hour (100mins in reality) drive according to him but we didn’t care. Saw some nice waterfalls on the way as well. Today has been a bit of a trashing travelling day so when we arrived at the Hibiscus Gardens we had all our bits crossed. Thankfully it’s lovely so we got ready and were into the pool by 5pm for an hour and a bit of splashing fun as the sun set.
We headed up to the restaurant, raised up above the rest of the bungalows so it caught a really nice breeze. The fare was the standard buffet fodder we’d become so used to and bored of. If we were never to see a Sri Lankan buffet again after this tour it would be far too soon. After dinner we chatted with Shakeer and despite our wishes to have a pool day he persuaded us to visit a temple nearby as it’s a Poya Day or full moon celebration. We retired to sleep though the third occupant of our bed had other ideas. Frankie was still awake chatting to himself long after Sam and I were catching zee’s. I was prodded and spoken to around 12.15am by him and when I woke for a toilet stop (yes there’s still no end to the urinating) at around 1am he was flat out.
Day 16 Chilling and cooking in one day.
We headed for the delights of breakfast, eggs, toast etc same as every day in one form of another, then readied ourselves for the pool. It was a nice pool and the sun was beating down, no surprise we all had a bit of a pink tinge by lunchtime. We went for lunch in the restaurant, though soon discovered that Shakeer had meant to just meet in the restaurant not eat! My club sandwich was lovely so tough luck. After lunch we set off to see the temples of Katagarma, there is a mosque, bhuddist temple and hindu temple all next to one another. We walked a fair way from the market area to the first temple. Here as always we removed out shoes which Shakeer checked in to a nearby hut to look after. Next was his revenge for us not listening, we were guided quickly thorough the hindu temple and pointed towards the bhuddist one. Off we set along a scorching road in bare feet, it was maybe the longest half mile of my life. My feet weren’t made for stony surfaces so I tried to stick to the sand or paved parts, problem was these were about 60 degrees Celsius. As my feet slowly cooked Sam was losing patience and was close to calling a halt to return to the shoes. By now Frank was in tears and demanded Shakeer carry him, Sid was gamely skipping about in the heat between shady areas, he never really complained which was far better than either Sam or I managed. The temple was shite when we got there, we politely had a quick circuit then began the tortuous return journey. As ever Shaky steamed ahead, only this time he had Frankie clinging on to his back. Several locals looked on incredulously as we pattered by barefoot, even some Sri Lankan kids were reduced to tears and most of the adults put their shoes back on between the temples. I nearly offered a king’s ransom for some skanky flip flops at one point. Once reunited with our footwear we had a quick look in the mosque. Then we headed past the locals swimming in the dirty river to the market area. Here I think Shaky softened his stance as he bought Frankie a football and us some treacle and coconut squidgy stuff to try, it was delicious. Lucky old Fosan had a bag bought for him as well. We returned to the hotel in time for a quick dip before dinner. The plan tonight was to find a hotel with ESPN and watch the match. After I wolfed down some grub I left Sam and the boys and headed out in a tuk-tuk to find the game.
It soon became apparent that there were no hotels that bothered to pay the extra subscription for the sports package, it’s only 1150 rupees (£6.50), as the cricket channels are free to air and that is all they really care about here. We returned in time to catch the family leaving the restaurant. Shaky was sending Fosan for a cake in the morning as it was Frankie’s birthday, we on the other hand were being collected at 5am for our safari of Yala. With that bombshell we all headed to bed early. By 9pm we were all snoring soundly, well I was following the game updated on the kindle between nodding off.
Day 17 Yala safari and home to the bungalow
Fortunately for us the caring folk at home decided to save us the wait for the 4.30am alarm and sent us text messages at 4.28am wishing Frank happy birthday and telling me about the match as seen on Match of the Day, thanks parents and Parkers. We collected out breakfast packs from the hotel and had a quick coffee before clambering aboard a huge old Land Rover modified for the safari trips. It was a good 45min ride to the entrance and when we arrived a little shaken around daylight had just broken. There were literally hundreds of jeeps waiting to enter the park, fortunately we’d got there early enough to avoid the fighting in the queue for tickets! Neither Shaky or the driver had ever seen so many jeeps, the park had reopened today following the elephant audit of the past 3 days so this probably explains it.
We saw several animals on the 6 hour safari. Lots of crocodiles, an elephant, buffalo and several types of birds that were really pretty. The main aim though was the leopard! Despite spending a long time scoping out the area where the leopards hang out and the driver insisting that they were in or under the tree we didn’t see conclusive evidence of the leopards being there. We have some sketchy photos on full zoom of something that might be a leopard but to be honest we can’t say for certain. The only real disappointment of the trip so far really, shame we didn’t see one prowling about. The safari was great other than that and the time had flown over.
We got back to the hotel for a shower and to finish packing to check out. The red dust covering us was soon washed down the plug and we felt clean and fresh if a little tired. We headed over to the restaurant to check out and celebrate the birthday of the big lad. Fosan had bought a nice cake for us, Frankie had balloons and we had tea. So all in all things went well for the 4 year old birthday boy, he had more surprises waiting for him back at the villa.
We set off towards the villa, it was going to be at least a 4 hour drive so we all soon nodded off to catch up on the missed sleep. After a couple of hours we began to stir, well birthday boy didn’t, his only response was “I’ll get up when we stop somewhere” then straight back to sleep. Somewhere near Mirissa we stopped for a toilet break and for Sam to get some snaps of the stilts the fishermen sit on to catch stuff. I popped to the toilet with Frank who had eventually agreed to leave the van. As we left the toilet we sensed some degree of excitement amongst the locals by the beach. As we walked down towards the sea we were greeted with an amazing and hilarious sight. Sam was perched precariously on one of the stilts out to sea! I later saw the photographic evidence that some poor fisherman had hoisted her on his shoulders out there, no wonder he was demanding 3000 rupees! As I took some snaps the fisherman produced a rod and insisted Sam catch a fish. After a few tries she whooped with excitement, dangling on the end of her line was a tiny parrot fish. After being reclaimed from the ocean, slightly wet but obviously buzzing Sam told me she’d agreed a price of 3000 rupees, nearly £20! Bollocks to that, ten minutes of fun and a carry out to sea isn’t worth 3 days wages for these guys. Despite their counter offers and protests of poverty I offered 1000 and said take it or leave it, cheeky sods. Shaky later told us that they are getting used to the Russian tourists who will happily pay $100 a pop. This is more than a week worth of pay for most people! No wonder they see every tourist as a cash cow.
I reckon that the Sri Lankans only look at the amount we are paid in the UK without considering the costs we have to fork out as well. No doubt we are materially far wealthier but the gap maybe isn’t as large as they imagine. Diesel here is 76 rupees a litre, that is about 45p, less than a third of what we pay. A loaf of bread fresh from the bakers is 50 rupees, about 30p, compared to £1.20 or so at home! Text messages are less than half a penny, only 3p to the UK! Not that I’d swap my life for theirs but there isn’t the huge gulf in wealth that the Sri Lankans imagine.
We continued around the south coast seeing the large towns there until we stopped off in Galle, heavily damaged by the tsunami and now being redeveloped with a state of the art bus station and international cricket ground. The old Dutch Fort area was nice, some interesting buildings and quite a clean quaint part of the town. As ever there are people offering all sorts of tourist tat, including the best offer we’ve had yet.... some teenage kid offered to throw himself off the 20m high fort walls into the sea for payment! Sid was mad keen for us to pay him but Sam was having none of it despite his protests of “Madam this is my job, I do all time”. Shame really that we turned him down it would have been funny to see him come a cropper on the rocks, silly bugger!
Before long we were in familiar territory driving through Hikkaduwa, we agreed to stop for food despite being so close to our destination. We returned to Refresh for a nice birthday meal. Sid had spaghetti, Frank pork sausages, Sam seafood pasta with octopus, crab legs and other weird stuff while I eventually gave in and had some pizza, first one this holiday. The food was good but we were tired and ready for home. We made the short 20 minute hop to the villa, unloaded our van and settled in for the night. We’d arranged to meet Shakeer for food on Wednesday night but he seems to think we are spending the day paying Fosan to drive us around, don’t think so. He has also invited us to have dinner at his house on Saturday to watch the match. We were all in bed asleep by 9pm.
Day 18 Recovery
We rose late this morning and spent the day by the pool till mid afternoon. We’ve inflated the battle boards so the lads are happy splashing madly in the pool. After lunch we needed some shopping as Siremel the tuk-tuk driver had brought us some prawns this morning. He brought a huge bag for 1400 rupees, about £7.75, there are maybe 40 prawns in there but here’s the catch, each one is about 8 inches long! Monsters of the deep in our freezer!
In town we asked Siremel to take us for veg and to try some Sri Lankan street food. We had a hopper for the lads and an egg hopper for us, lovely, like a crispy batter bowl but with a crumpet like texture on the thicker bottom. Later on we bought egg rotti and a curry parcel, the boys liked the rotti but the curry parcel was quite fiery so we didn’t let them try it. I think I’m hooked now though! At the vegetable shop (well more poky hole in the wall near the stinky fish alley) we stocked up on tomatoes, garlic, capsicums (half green pepper half spicy chilli) and some potatoes. Cost in the UK maybe £5-6 here 180 rupees, just over £1! See it’s easy to live on a wage of £200 a month with prices this low!
Back home for a chilled evening watching TV and preparing the monster prawns and spaghetti with tomato and garlic. After the boys hit the hay we watched the film Kick Ass on the movie channel, wow I’d never realised what a good film it was or I’d have seen it much earlier.
Day 19 Turtley great
Again we rose late and spent the morning by the pool despite the showers that tried to start. After lunch of ham sandwiches we rang Siremel and asked to go to the turtle farm in his tuk-tuk. The turtles were great, they had 1000’s ready for release each day, one pool had the 1 day old turtles in, they are moved to the 2 day pool then the 3 day pool then released into the wild. We all held the tiny turtles, they are amazingly strong for their size. The sanctuary has an albino turtle and several that have been injured by boats and sharks, these ones cannot be released into the wild. The boys seemed to enjoy seeing them and the water monitors in the stream behind. After this we were taken to see one of the new houses built by Lalith, WOW! I’m not kidding when I say it’s an amazing house. The Koi Carp breakfast area was shady and nice, the pool was enormous and the built in pool bar with stools was a nice feature, we’ve been to hotels with smaller pools. Inside the floors were either polished cement with inlaid plant designs or solid hardwood flooring. The kitchen was a handmade wood affair, not a cheap chatty one though, more bespoke designer finish. Each bedroom was en suite and a/c with some intricate designs in the wall plaster. We were mightily impressed for sure, especially with the beach front location. The price is still a mystery but we’ll no doubt find out soon enough.
Our final visit was to a local shop for some sarongs. I’d wanted one after seeing the local blokes looking cool and well aired walking around. The ones we’d seen in Kandy were a bit pricy at 4000 rupees so I was horror struck when the guy straight away mentioned batik! How much I wondered hesitantly? 750 rupees each, no way Jose! We bought 4 of those ones and one of his more expensive ones for Sam at 1750. I sense an import deal if we have a UK market!!!
After this we headed in the showers to get ready for our trip out to Diya Sisila. This restaurant has only received 5 out of 5 ratings on Trip Advisor so it has a lot to live up to. Siremel took us in his tuk-tuk, it was 30 minutes away inland from Bentota. When we got there the lovely garden was such a tranquil setting we felt guilty taking our noisy boys with us. The chef/owner was lovely as he showed us his boat and the lake behind the restaurant. He claimed to be here to make nice food and live comfortably on his reputation. There were only 5 or 6 tables in the whole place, it appeared that volume wasn’t the aim of the game here. He excused himself as he had to go and cook the food, his brother was in charge of the front of house, he was also a lovely guy. After not too long the boys food arrived, battered fish with chips just as Sam had ordered, this was quickly followed by an alternative type of battered fresh fish with ketchup and marie rose sauce to choose from. We both pinched a taste, the second fresh fish in batter was unbelievably moist and melt in the mouth. Shortly after this our food arrived – a large platter of rice, some daal, some green beans, a potato dish and finally the 2 curries, one fish the other prawn. My word the food was wonderful, the curries were delicious, the food needed little chewing it was cooked perfectly. The flavours were spicy enough but lots of other subtle flavours broke through. Without doubt our best meal of the holidays so far. As a restaurant it was a strange concept, no menu, no beer just tell him what you like or fancy when you book and trust that he is going to make something tasty. The mains which we struggled to finish were followed by a small ice cream dessert. When we asked for the bill it was a mystery what we would be charged, for this service and food it could be anything. Rice and sides were 1500 each, the fish curry 1000 and the prawns 1500, nothing for the dessert or the boys food. A total bill of 5600 plus 600 tip is roughly £35, a bargain. The long tuk-tuk journey home passed without event. Now all we need to do is win the lottery and by one of Lalith’s new houses so we can eat at Diya Sisila every week.
Day 20 What will today bring?
So far today has been all about relaxing by the pool. Playing with the boys and having time to read our books. Lunch in the bungalow always makes things easier, I just need to learn how to move from scrambled egg to making egg rotti!
Well there we go! That's all I can find for now. To round off our trip report we did visit a gem mine the afternoon of day 20. It was again an interesting experience seeing how the semi precious stones are recovered, Sirimel warned us in the tuk tuk that there would be some hard sell tactics in the shop afterwards and that he could probably get us things cheaper away from the mine. The rings were as ever of interest to Sam, but even she saw the scam in operation where a moonstone ring was over £100 compared to about £30 back home in the UK. We were invited out to eat tonight to Shakeer's family home. It was lovely to meet his wife and baby daughter, she was so beautiful and tiny. A veritable feast of food had been prepared for us. As is customary the guests eat first, while of course watching the Sunderland - Newcastle match on tv! We were barely able to make a dent in the range of curries, bbq chicken, rice dishes, juices etc. We tried to eat as much as we could to please our hosts but there was simply mountains of food. We had taken a fruit basket as we had been told it was a traditional gift to give when visiting.
The kids were great, disappearing off in a tuk tuk with a relative to tour the neighbourhood much to Sam's horror. They were very well mannered and made friends with Shakeer's niece and nephew. At the end of a lovely night Fowsan drove us home with said niece and nephew in tow, all four kids crashed in the van. Sid wanted to give his Sunderland shirt to his new friend and Sam gave a necklace to Shakeer's niece.
Day 21 again was spent relaxing and packing. We had arranged to visit Diya Sisila restaurant again to finish the holiday in style. This second visit we were to arrive earlier as the owner wanted us to take a ride on the lake by the restaurant. As you can see from the photos above the scenery was lovely, the flower given to Sam by the boatman was beautiful and the boys enjoyed it no end. No crocodiles unfortunately though!
The meal was again top quality, the owner had hired in music to play for us, a special place to eat. We had the restaurant to ourselves for most of the night. I can't remember now the bill, it was about the same as last time only the 'tip' for the boatman and musicians was extra. This time we were given a little parcel of goodies to take away, fruit and other delicious foods. I cannot recommend the restaurant highly enough.
Day 22 saw us being picked up early by Shakeer to be taken north of Columbo to stay in a little guesthouse on the coast near the airport. It took a little finding in the back streets! We stopped in Colombo to buy Sri Lanka cricket shirts for the lads on the way. We ate in the guesthouse and retired early for our 4am airport drop off. I will try hard to find the name of the guesthouse and add it later.
The flight home was uneventful on the fabulous Oman Air, we did stop off at Male in the Maldives this time.
We landed in Heathrow tired and sad to have left such a wonderful country and people behind. Tomorrow we were heading to LEGOLAND to finish a wonderful adventure.
Summer 2011 Lockey Family Holiday to Sri Lanka
Day 1 of the mammoth holiday
1.00pm we left Shotley Villa East for the drive down to Heathrow. Despite the dire warnings of Air Show traffic near Durham and the gridlock around the cricket at Nottingham things progressed as planned. A quick toilet/snack stop near Wakefield, another around Luton and we arrived at Heathrow a full 75mins ahead of schedule! Trust in the Lockster’s planning I thought to myself. Though to be fair traffic was far lighter than I had imagined it would be. Only the three separate average speed zones had given any cause for less frenzied progress.
We left the car in the Radisson Hotel and ever the culture vultures we popped next door for a McDonalds. The guy from Sky Park came for the car and arranged to drop us at the terminal in his mini bus, rather nice of him I thought as it saved us a tenner on the Heathrow bus. He was even hesitant to take the fiver tip I gave him.
Once in the terminal things kicked into gear quickly. Despite a slow check in, trying not to listen to carefully to the argument that blocked one of the 3 desks, we were soon through passport control. I think the poor family arguing about their checked luggage were left with a hefty bill, rightly so mind, they had 7 suitcases weighing 142kg between 5 of them, then some pretty hefty hand luggage on top of that. No doubt smuggling gallons of whisky into the Middle East! Managed to buy 2 sets of headphones, a book for Sam and one for Frankie while waiting for the flight. Sid was in the land of DS so said very little during the wait to board.
The plane was nice, the staff seemed friendly and the in flight entertainment was top notch. Latest films (we didn’t get to watch any mind), games, kids stuff, even the internet at $29.95 for 28MB of download! I wasn’t tempted as I’m not sure there’d be that much of interest on the SMB, well nowt worth the neck end of £20! Sid has played every game imaginable on the console; it’s just his cup of tea. He’d rather play than sleep I imagine. Did manage to set up a playlist to listen to while dozing on the plane. I call it dozing but really it was sitting still with my eyes shut. Chose some soothing tunes for the playlist, Mumford and Sons, Florence, White Stripes, Strokes, Elbow and best of all Queens Greatest Hits. Sid wasn’t happy and didn’t sleep until we put him on the floor under the seats with a blanket. Surprisingly he was straight off to kip without a moment’s hesitation. Frank on the other hand, well he conked out straight away and never budged even when I lifted him up and chucked him across the row of 4 seats to Sam. It’s probably a good moment now to point out how well behaved the boys have been. It’s been a tough first 15 hours since we left home and no doubt the next 24 hours will only be tougher what with all the waiting around in Muscat, another night flight and then a 3-4 hour van ride to the villa. If we get through it without frayed tempers then we’ve done amazingly well. Particularly as the Stattmeister hasn’t really slept, if any of us needed sleep it’s the missus. She’ll be like the Honey Monster with a thorn in his paw later unless this lounge has nice sleep pods. Little more than an hour till we land in Muscat, its 5.05am UK time but 8.05am in Muscat, doesn’t make me feel any less knackered, can’t even face the cheese salad sandwich I’ve been provided for brekkie. Though the fruit and yoghurt were nice. Frank is still asleep so he at least has had about 5 hours, Sid and Sam maybe half that, me I’m more machine than man, sleep is not a requirement for this unit!!
I’m knackered!
Day 2 Muscat, Oman (well the airport anyway)
The fabled Majan lounge as advertised on the Oman Air website appears to be ‘undergoing refurbishment’ so our plans of sleep, freshening up and maybe having a snack and drink are dashed; temporarily at least as Statt isn’t looking in the mood to accept this situation. She quickly pops along to the Oman Air 1st Class Lounge, no doubt demanding a team of workers arrive to finish the refurbishment by midday. She soon returns with directions to the Plaza Lounge so we head there. 35 rials for us all to enter; 15 each for us, half price for Sid and free for Frankie, not sure how that comes to 35 but never mind. Sid nabs the only available snooze booth but doesn’t settle to sleep. In the meanwhile I fashion some sort of secure contraption from 3 seats for Frankie to sleep in, within 10 minutes he’s flat out and doesn’t rise for another 4 hours. Sid soon emerges having not slept so Sam quickly commandeers the booths for the next 3 hours. While she is getting her much needed beauty sleep I try out some of the ‘free’ snacks and drinks; muck about on the net and watch Sid play on his DS. Eventually I make up another makeshift chair bed contraption and hop in using Sid’s ‘Softee’, a jumper and the net book case to make a pillow, flat out for another hour! I’m beginning to feel like a bit of a weakling, that’s at least 2 hours sleep I’ll have done in the last 36, machine “pah!”
Once Sam emerges looking all glamorous and rested we try to rouse the beast Frankie, he takes some convincing that its morning but eventually he rises. He and Sid tuck into some pasta, rice, chicken concoction followed by water melon and, at Sid’s insistence, some cake. As our 5 hours is rapidly running out we decide to avail ourselves of the shower facilities. Sam pops in first with Frankie while Sid and I update the journal. Only another 9 hours to keep occupied before we fly out to Sri Lanka. Once again I have to say the boys have done brilliantly, I know adults who would have moaned and whinged about the situation we’ve dragged them through but bar a little tiredness and grumpiness we’ve seen nothing but fun and games from them both. We have persuaded Sid that he’s sleeping on the plane floor again though! He really need to get more sleep, I think he’s done only slightly more than I have, he’s a machine at seven! The Stayawakeinator! Got to say I bet Tom Hanks character wouldn’t have stayed in Seeb International Airport like he did in that film where the guy lived in JFK or somewhere. It’s like Newcastle Airport without the Burger King!
Well we left the lounge after 6 hours before we were kicked out having only paid for 5 hours in there. We’d all had a shower and a change of pants so the Lockey clan smell fresh. Followed the signs for children’s play area; it was a 10x10 soft play. The boys ran around so I sat down on the side, woke up 80 minutes later in a pool of drool lying on the side barrier, serious malfunction. I wasn’t alone in breaking down, I rose from my soggy bed to see Sid once again flat out on the floor covered by the inevitable GAP sweatshirt as a blanket, he rose 3 hours later in a state of complete confusion and bewilderment. Frank is like Duracell boy, he’ll end up a copper top like his mother, and he’s never stopped since his snooze in the lounge. Sam, Sid and I had a Subway for tea, Frankie ever the rebel insisted on something from the Omani version of McDonalds – chicken strips and chips with free milk, ice cream and toy frog (very middle eastern). He got the best deal, the lady put honey mustard sauce on Sam’s sarnie unbidden and only a timely intervention by me avoided the heinous addition of cucumber to my turkey breast special. Just to annoy the Stattster it was 1 rial 700 wobbledobs or whatever they use below a rial, she thinks I’m obsessed with prices! Franks mega meal deal only 1 rial 400. I’d got 10 rials out of the ATM which I think is about £16 but to be honest I haven’t the foggiest. We’ve spent 6 hours by the soft play; the boys have made pals with a couple of lads from London who are travelling to Sri Lanka with their Tamil parents. They are called Sakrash and Kalash and are 6 years old. They’ve been full of the dangers of a hairy caterpillar that lives in Sri Lanka, sounds delightful.
Anyway it appears our flight is now stopping off at Male in the Maldives, the schedule doesn’t mention this but all the announcements and departure boards say it does so we’ll see. Final stage of the gigantic journey is about to commence, let’s hope for just a little more sleep on the plane tonight. Sure we’ll be fine, just need to boot Sid out his seat and onto the floor. Sam is a whole different kettle of fish, not sure what will help her get through this, and tiredness and not eating properly are her two Achilles heels, looks like I’ve struck a blow at both. Teamwork is helping us all get through it though. Travel with this family is definitely the way to go in the future.
Into the night part two and onward into day three
Well we’ve left Oman at last. We have a nice 3 hour 50 minute flight to look forward to. We wait on the tarmac in Oman for an hour, the plane is missing about 50 passengers from a connecting flight due in from Frankfurt, the silly sausages eventually board and we head off. The boys collapse asleep on Sam, I watch Thor – w.t.f. is that all about? One of the most pointless films I’ve seen for years, a real turkey. A little shut eye then we are landing. We soon get through passport control, collect our bags then out into the real world again. Lasantha is there waiting for us with a little sign, he takes us outside to the kerb then dashes off for his minibus. The traffic around Colombo is horrendous; we cover maybe 30 miles in 2 hours. We are all zombiefied in the bus and drop off sprawled all over the seats. About 3 hours into the journey I try to shake myself awake and I am gradually joined by the rest of the family. Lasantha stops at an ATM then a bit later the supermarket so we can get some essentials. The road down from Colombo is one pretty endless sprawl of buildings at the roadside. They comprise various shops, businesses and well other buildings that sell stuff but aren’t really shops. Litter is a big thing here, it’s everywhere! A real culture shock!
We arrive at the bungalow; it’s just off the main road up a little track. It’s a pretty sizeable place, 3 double and 2 singles. We’ve been set up in the 2 doubles with air conditioning, nice. Marilyn and John seem lovely and welcoming. Their house is a huge place, some retirement home. We have quick showers then a dip in the pool. Tiredness soon hits me and I go for a lie down only to wake up two and a half hours later. As I wake, Sam collapses into bed for a couple of hours. Around 4pm Frank passes out in front of Cartoon Network, we try to rouse him a couple of times but he’s out for the count and sleeps through until the next morning at 8am when he joins us only to wee down Sam’s back, tee hee. He did wake Sid around 3.30 am to vomit some pool water up then crashed again. Sam, Sid and I had ordered some Chinese food from the local takeaway. Fish and chips, chilli pork, sweet and sour chicken and some noodles. The tuk tuk guy the villa use got it for us and collected 6 big bottles of beer. He’d rung to say “No Prawn!” so we changed the order to chicken. The mountainous delivery arrived, the portions were huge. No fish and chips though, Sid was gutted but tried the noodles before asking for Coco Pops. Can’t blame him really the noodles were spicy but really tasty. Sam and I tried our best to devour the prawn, chicken and pork dishes but did well to manage maybe half. You may notice I said prawn? It was the fish they didn’t have so we’d ordered a needless Chinese dish. Never mind things get lost in translation no doubt. By 10pm we were all pooped and hit the sack for our 11 hour sleep-a-thon, barring Franks mini vomit incident all slept sweetly. Sid eventually rose at quarter to ten! Even that machine needs some sleep I guess.
Day 4 Balapitiya beckons
After a hearty breakfast of toast, cereal and juice we were ready for a little wander, so set off about 11am to see the sights.
Armed with the ‘dog stick’ at Marilyn’s suggestion we set off along the road towards the ‘Ice Age’ hotel. Progress was slower than expected as every local wanted to stop us to say hello. Some stick thin fellow even crossed the road, like in Death Race 2000 to shake our hands and introduce himself as ‘Siri’. Once we had made our excuses and left we returned to the beach quest. Unfortunately we missed the turning and wandered onto the litter strewn beach where the hotel was. The sea was pounding the beach. Realising we should head to the right we attempted to cross some rocky coastline in the direction of the beach we had set out for. We soon realised that this expedition was doomed to failure, but only after a good soaking from a wave crashing up over the rocks and almost losing a child. As we turned back our stick thin saviour materialised from the trees. Siri now told us he was both local lobster fisherman and lifeguard; it was his duty to guide us to the beach we sought. A hot sweaty trek along the jungle road led us through more litter strewn jungle, just use the bin, across a garden of sorts after passing a huge lizard and onto the beach by the river. Siri introduced us to the lobster fisherman he worked with, they spoke little English. We walked along the beach to the river mouth where several locals were having a refreshing dip in the water. Several dead jellyfish were washed up and floating by but we braved the water for a paddle. It was warm like the bath and we soon saw the attraction. After a while I became a little suspicious of the guys just floating in the water, I soon spotted the reason for their reluctance to chat of leave the water. Some discarded shorts and tops soon had me realising they were obviously butt naked and too embarrassed to leave the water. I suggested to Sam we move off towards home and sure enough the guys scampered out of the water once we left to hide behind their boat and dress. Siri stopped off by his house on the way home to give us some King Coconut to drink. He grew them in his garden and was very keen we try one. It tasted like melon juice but was fairly warm. The boys weren’t keen so half was handed back. As usual that awkward moment arose, this guy would obviously want some recompense for his time and coconut, I offered, he looked embarrassed and asked for something for the kids, I looked in the wallet and though “You’re not getting £6 so it’s the 30p worth of rupees I’ve been saving up”. Not sure if he was disappointed or not, to be honest it’s tough we didn’t ask for his help or skanky warm coconut anyhow.
Once back in the villa it was quick lunch of bacon and egg, oh how Sri Lankan we are. Then our first tuk tuk trip with Sirimal, the driver that the owners recommended we use. We later found out they had bought him the tuk tuk and he offered more competitive rates to their guests. He’s kind of their slave I reckon, though the clever bugger even charges them if they want a lift somewhere! Sirimal is a lovely fellow, he took us to buy a sim card for the mobile (5 hours later it’s still not registered), to his mates fruit stall for apples, oranges, mango, mini bananas, wood apple and the chance to taste some hairy thing that looked like an eye ball and then to the supermarket. It’s kind of like a cross between a Spar and a Lidl just with much crapper and dustier stuff. Though the prices are more Marks and Spencer, five carrier bags costing the neck end of £35.
We pooled it after that and chilled till it was time to head out for the night. During the afternoon Frankie screamed out loud as he was first to spot a monkey! They were pretty big boys leaping across the trees. The boys had made Marilyn a birthday card so they dropped that over while we waited for Sirimal. His 10 minutes was more like 25 but I guess things are relaxed round here; it did give us the chance to see some fire flies. He took us to Hikkaduwa, it seemed a long way so both the lads caught some nap time. Sirimal suggested the restaurant ‘Refresh’, it was right by the sea and had loads of fresh sea fish alive to pick out a tank. The boys wanted pizza (1600 rupees!) we had Sri Lankan curry, it came with a huge plate of rice and 6 smaller bowls of dishes, curries were fish, chicken and pineapple, then there was spinach and garlic, some spice potatoes, daal and coconut sambol. For 950 rupees it was gorgeous. The beers flowed and the boys swigged milkshakes and we all shared banana pancakes with ice cream. Then it was back home in the tuk tuk. We headed to bed despite the invite for a drink from our hosts.
Day 5 Chillin by the pool
With the dawn chorus of Sam’s snortling I awoke at 7am. Took little one for the bathroom visit he’d refused last night then snuggled him back into bed. Poor little fella was freezing lying with no covers and the AC on full pelt. He snuggled in and was instantly back asleep. Showered all alone while the family slumbered on, lazy devils the lot of them. Has to be the first time in years I’ve been first up and raring to go. Prepared a nice family breakfast of toast, cereal and lovely cup of tea for Statty, must remember to polish my halo later.
Over breakfast we decided to have a day chilling by the pool. Sam spoke to Sirimal about the sim card still not working, he said he’d sort it. Swam and splashed around with the boys, relaxed in side after lunch for a while and did very little. Sirimal called back but the message was lost in translation. Either the sim can’t be registered and we need a new one or it’s because we used his ID and we need to take ours along as he already has 5 sims registered. Who knows!
More pool antics and relaxing in the afternoon then cooked tea in and settled into watch Tooth Fairy with the boys. We spoke to Shakeer tonight; he seemed relieved to hear from us eventually. We’ve arranged to go out for dinner with him tomorrow night to discuss the tour. Also off to sort the sim card with Sirimal.
Even Sam has chilled today, she shared a beer before 6pm, decadence! Holiday mode has certainly taken over. Even discussed how much Sam would like a place somewhere tropical!
Day 6 – Madu Ganga and beyond!
We spent the morning by the pool again then a Sri Lankan lunch of fish fingers and chips! We were being collected at 3pm for a trip up the nearby Madu Ganga River. Apparently Madu means island and this river has 56 islands in it. The trip was run by the brother of Lalith who organised our airport collection, he is called Udul (he’s like a skinny Lalith and we later discovered he has a blue scooter as opposed to a red one like Lalith). He runs an Ayurveda Treatment place by the river and also has 2 boats for tours. He sent us on a trip in our own boat with a young guy named Lasantha, he looked like an Asian version of my brothers friend Michael Proctor, well his lugs did anyway. Udul charges 2000 rupees for the boat for a 2 hour trip as opposed to 1800 per person with some of the other companies. We set off upstream to be accosted by two kids in a canoe with a ‘pet’ monkey. For a fee we got to hold the monkey, Sam and Sid did the honours and said he was lovely. We drove through the mangroves for a while then suddenly the river opens out into an enormous lake. We whizzed around a while then headed for our first island treat – Cinnamon Island. Basically it’s an old bloke and his family who live in poverty in a crappy little hut. They spend all day peeling the bark off cinnamon trees and making those cinnamon rolls to dry out and sell. They come in lengths up to 1 metre long. All of this cinnamon is exported and Sri Lanka is famous for it as it is all hand-made not done using machines. Obviously he wanted to sell us, cinnamon oil, powder and sticks but at 300 rupees (£1.85 a pop) it seemed rude not to. We left with 50 bottles of oil, 3 tonnes of powder and 8000 sticks! Or something like that!
Next up was our trip with the cunning Bhuddist Monk. He was charming and showed us round his temple and stuff then asked nicely for a donation. We fell for the trick of giving 1000 rupees (£6) as everyone else seemed to have done the same. As I read the donation book though it became apparent that someone, and I’m not pointing any fingers here, had added a zero to every donation. Some were even in different coloured pen! Karma will no doubt step in and we will meet the monk again as a dung beetle or pile of dog shit.
The final stop off was the fish farm. To be fair it was also the best. The boys balanced precariously on the gangways floating above the river throwing fish food into the Koi Carp and Tilapia that were being reared there. Next we all had a fish foot massage, lovely, sticking my feet into a cage of 45000 tiny little tilapia isn’t top of the wish list but to be honest it was fun and very tickly. The whole family had a go as well.
We returned to the dock after some expert boat captaincy by my good self. It was nice to be in charge of the speed boat and to be honest I reckon I was a much better driver than the real one! As we pulled up we spotted a huge water monitor swimming across the river, well over 1m long! He was cool.
We headed home sharp for about 6pm as tonight we met Shakeer for the first time. He arrived at 7.30pm with a big bunch of flowers for Sam and a pineapple for the boys. Him and his driver are Muslim so we headed off for a meal, he’d not eaten since 6am due to it being Ramadan, he must have been starving. Not sure the Lockey clan could go 14 hours without some grub.
We headed to his home town of Aluthgama about 30 minutes drive away. He took us to a Hotel called La Luna for some food, we were the only customers! The waiter arrived with some raw prawns to show us and some fish. Shakeer bless him must’ve been clamming for food by then as ordered us £25 worth of jumbo prawns and a big fish for the boys. They arrived with chips, salad and rice not long afterwards. As ever the boys decided not to each much so we all tucked into the grub. The portion was at least 60 king prawns on a huge platter covered with maybe a whole bulb of garlic. Realising they’d over done it with the vampire killer Shakeer insisted on some sauce, garlic sauce! Without doubt they were some of the finest prawns we had tasted, the sauce was divine. I doubt we’ll be bitten by the roaming un-dead for at least a week. It was a late night as we tucked the boys up at about 11.30 pm. Only then did Shakeer drop the bombshell that Saturday’s pick up was 6am!
Day 7 Time to chill once again, oh and pack!
Morning was pool time again, though we were rudely interrupted by the heaviest downpour ever! The whole garden was under water but this disappeared within an hour of the rain stopping giving us time for some more swimming. We headed to the one and only restaurant in Balapitiya at about 4.30pm, its five minutes walk away by the river docks. We arrived and ordered some food; it was so cheap we went for starters as well. After 40 minutes the tummy was feeling hungry. The waiter came and told us no spring rolls (Sam’s starter) would she like the same as me or prawn cocktail? Another 20 minutes then the bombshell that there was actually none of mine either! Never mind our Sri Lankan rice and curry wasn’t long, Sam had hers medium and I went for the full Sri Lankan heat. Spicy and nice! Frank wolfed down chicken spaghetti and Sid was adventurous with a cheese omelette and chips. We all had ice cream for afters and enjoyed it. The bill was only 3000 rupees, a third of last night’s Prawn extravaganza. The walk home was eventful, it rained and the whole village stared as we walked through. We did get stopped by a mystery man on a blue scooter, it was Udul, how he thought we’d recognise him in a full face helmet?
Upon our return we had an eventful episode. As I sat relaxing on my throne, I heard a rattle and a shadow crept along the shower floor, suddenly a huge rat scampered out from the shower out the door towards the kitchen. Sam went for the cavalry of John and Marilyn while Sid and I armed only with the dog stick went in search. The rat scampered out of the kitchen as I searched bathroom number 2 only to be confronted by Sid stamping and shouting; it turned tail and set off back into the kitchen. We opened the back door ready to chase it out. I rattled my stick and it shot from behind the freezer into the passage but turned away from the door! Sid bless him was heroic and shooed the little vermin back my way, I whacked it with the stick against the wall then took aim for a mighty slap shot out the door! I think I enjoyed the Tooth Fairy a little too much. Just then the cavalry arrived. John fetched some big plugs for the shower drains so we’ll not get any more visits from Ratty we hope.
All packed now and off to bed for the next stage of our family adventure!
Day 8 We hit the road!
Up early at 5am, it’s like waking the dead with Frankie; he really isn’t a morning person. Sid opens his eyes and is wide awake; I don’t know how he does it. We munch on a few bits and pieces as we pack the last few things (or not as it later turned out). Marilyn and John were up with the larks to greet Shakeer as he arrived at 6am, no doubt looking to get the bungalow on his tourist radar. Once we are all loaded up we set off northwards. It’s going to be a six hour slog on the bus today. After a couple of hours Shakeer asks the driver Fosan to pull up at the side of the road. There’s a kind of hut with some plastic tables outside and some crazy looking locals. Apparently this is a pineapple farm. We see all the thousands of plants, each only fruits once and takes about 9 months. It’s not the season for them at the moment but the guy always has a few on the go. He chooses us a ripe one and passes it to the old crone with the machete. A few swift strokes of her lethal weapon and the pineapple’s served up in a bowl for us to try. Sid has been given a mini pineapple that he has christened Paul, strange child. As we finished the pineapple the old woman produces a yellow smooth fruit, we are told it is maracuya or passion fruit, it’s nothing like the wrinkly brown things you get in Tesco. Once cut in half it’s definitely a passion fruit, very tasty to eat with your fingers we are told so of course we oblige. Sid tried his first ever pineapple today but Frank wouldn’t try it!
We continue the journey through several towns careering between tuk tuks and buses and lorries. Eventually some dolly birds in Saris wave us down, I say dolly birds but I really mean fat middle aged ladies trying to look sexy (no not Sam!) They are selling cashew nuts fresh off the trees behind them. Sam and Shakeer get out to haggle, we end up with 3 bags and a bonus mini one for 500 rupees. Frank by now is hungry and proceeds to trough as many as he can.
Eventually after 6 hours of long travel we arrive in Dambulla where we are taken to lunch at a kind of hotel. As ever in Sri Lankan hotels it’s a buffet affair so Sam and I do our best to stick to the local dishes while the boys as usual make a fuss about everything. Sid makes up for this with his dessert eating, only Andrew Knighton could challenge this boy over pudding.
We are driven 10 minutes further to the Hotel Thilanka Spa where we are staying. The bus drops us off 200 metres from the door, some hike in this heat with the world’s biggest case. However help is at hand in the form of a bicycle taxi to take us the final step, for a tip of course! This hotel looks the business, modern, stylish, enormous pool and our room has a Jacuzzi. We have a couple of hours to spare before our first activity so hit the pool.
After a quick splash we are off to see Sigiriya or Lion Rock a two thousand year old palace/monastery build around and on a really high rock. I’d try to describe it but couldn’t do it justice, look at the photos. It’s an amazing feat of engineering that’s for sure. We climb almost to the top before Frankie and Sam quit on us, Sid and I are determined to make it up all 1320 steps. Sweating and breathing heavily I get to the top to see Sid dancing round with some monkeys, where does he get his energy? The views are simple stunning, particularly as it is almost sunset. Not surprisingly it’s a bit quicker getting down than up and we are soon back aboard the bus with Fosan and back to the hotel. Showers then off for the buffet dinner. We even manage to skype home so the boys can speak to Jim and Joyce, they use all 450 rupees worth of the connection but they all seemed to enjoy the chance to gossip.
We are heading out at 9.30am tomorrow so off to sleep we go.
Day 9 Our first meeting with Buddha and Elephants
After breakfast we leave the Thilanka Hotel and switch to our nearby second hotel the Perwerhara Village, it’s only 20/30 minutes away. We stop at the Cave Temples of Dambulla on the way. Here is the highest Buddha in the world, an enormous 30 metre high golden effigy of Buddha teaching. We get asked for photos off a monk, though it was supposed to be the other way around? The once again we climb the steps, then some more, then finally we are half way and only another few hundred steps to go. Shoes off, into the temple we head. A lovely old fellow takes us round explaining everything about the Buddha and the way of life and the history of the caves. It’s interesting but the boys soon lose their focus and begin to drift. It was a nice place to visit, some great paintings in the caves.
Our second hotel isn’t quite as plush as the first but the room is fine and the lunch by the pool goes down nicely. We later find out they are mid renovation before the season begins in October, good luck guys there’s still plenty to do. The lunch by the pool is nice and after this Frank finds a huge land monitor lizard in the garden. Next we spot a multi coloured chameleon on top of the roof, he was red, yellow, green and blue.
This afternoon we are off on safari to see elephants. How many we ask? “Wait see!” replies Shakeer. Well in short we saw over 100 elephants while being bumped and thrown around in the back of some long wheel base Tata 4 wheel drive vehicle. Again the photos will explain the amazing sights.
We returned home from the safari dusty and thirsty. We all showered in the lovely cool shower, no hot water tonight it seems, and then off for our evening meal. The beer is cold here thank goodness as last nights the semi chilled ale wasn’t the best. Again the food is a buffet mix of western and Sri Lankan, though the hotel is maybe a little less impressive the food is certainly a bit better. We have a visitor in bed this evening, not a bug or a beastie but Sid decides top to tail isn’t his cup of tea so spends the night wiggling between us.
Day 10 Spice to see you to see you spice!
We leave the hotel after breakfast with a stroke of good fortune, Sam manages to get 2100 rupees change for a 1000 rupee note! We drive a while until we reach a ‘Spice Garden’, home of all things magical and Ayurvedic. A nice man takes us around the garden showing us all the different trees and explaining their uses in Ayurvedic medicine. We get to sniff, feel and be smothered in a whole concoction of treatments as we go; including having half my hand de-haired by some magical formula. We could get some for my back or Sam’s chin perhaps! At the end of the tour we are taken to a hut and some things are explained to us in greater detail, then we are surprised by the arrival of a birthday cake!!! Shakeer and Sam have been plotting I suspect. Next up was a free massage for the 4 of us, very relaxing if a little painful at times. We were going to buy some of the products on offer but the prices were ridiculous. Some of the treatments were about £80, this for something grown in the garden with no scientific proof it works.
We headed onwards to Kandy, home of the Perahera festival. The room was huge in the Serene Gardens, with Happy Birthday in flowers on the bed. A nice touch from Shakeer! Shakeer asked us to meet him at 4.45pm to go to the dance show. We headed there for an hour of Sri Lankan dancing then the best bit, the fire walkers! The boys were impressed. Straight from here we headed into the Perahera festival. Well me and the boys did, Sam had come in a vest and as our reserved seats (5000 rupees) were in the Tooth Temple she wasn’t getting in. We left her outside to go and get changed but she soon emerged next to us sporting a rather fetching shawl. Some enterprising local spotted her plight and offered her a scarf for 300 rupees. The festival was a feast of sights sounds and smells. The ninjas keeping the braziers alight to show the way were fearless, the dancers frenzied and the elephants majestic. Though 3 hours later we were tired out and drummed into submission. We returned to the hotel for a 10.30 pm evening meal then bed! A birthday to remember.
Day 12 The Elephants of Pinnawella and MEF
After a hearty pancake breakfast for the boys, Frankie ate 6, we headed out to see the elephants at Pinnewella Elephant Orphanage. We arrived at the village and walked down to the river. In front of us we saw 60 to 70 elephants all splashing about in the river. We sat with a drink in a restaurant overlooking the river while they cooled off. Little babies were splashing grown-ups and causing mischief. The odd one stumbled and fell into the water but seemed to enjoy the soaking. At the order from the mahouts the elephants all gathered and clambered out of the water to parade back up to the orphanage. It was a pretty amazing sight and the boys certainly enjoyed it. As we followed the procession up the middle of the village we stopped off to buy some ‘Poo Paper’, not want you might think! It’s paper made from the fibres found in the elephant poop, nice. We spent a little time in the orphanage watching the elephants, Sam managed to tip a guy 500 rupees instead of 50 to touch the elephants and have a photo taken. Everyone gathered by the feeding pen as 2 babies were given milk, there were hundreds of people and only 8 get to feed a baby. As ever Shakeer made sure one of the boys was chosen, Sid held the bottle of milk while the elephant swigged it back in maybe 10 seconds.
After this we took a short drive to the Millennium Elephant Foundation. This was an extra activity we’d asked for so it’s been only the second thing we’ve had to pay for. We went for the 30 minute experience for 3000 rupees (£18) each for the adults, we negotiated the boys in free. The allowed us time to wash an elephant in the river, just us and the elephant, armed with our coconut shells we gave him a darned good scrubbing. The boys were in their element, it was a really nice experience, the elephants are so big and powerful. After this we were given a little talk in the museum about the elephants of Asia. Next we all clambered about a large elephant for a ten minute ride, poor beast had to carry us all but seemed to manage ok, the only sign of displeasure was the flapping of ears to whack Frankie. After the foundation we stopped by the road for a snack of red bananas and water melon. We returned to Kandy to chill by the pool, chill being the operative word, the water was blinking freezing. We sampled the delights of the buffet for evening meal, a generally forgettable experience as with many of the buffets.
Day 13 Leaving Kandy? Standards fall.
After talking with Shakeer I was under the impression we would leave Kandy at a leisurely 10.30am to travel to our next hotel by the water falls just before Nuwara Eliya. Well that was the plan I’d found out later but Shakeer in his wisdom decided to show Sam some Batik and Wood Carving places. We left the hotel at 10.30am as planned for the 150 yard drive to the workshops, at 1pm we eventually left the workshops having spent over £100 on stuff, Sam once again showing her amazing ability to bankrupt us. We did get some good stuff but managed to avoid the 4 foot high wooden carved elephant, to be fair he was a little pricey at £3200, including the import and shipping. If we’d have had the money he’d no doubt be en route to Newcastle on a ship by now! Running late we eventually made the Botanical Gardens for a whistle stop tour, there was some really interesting stuff there and the guide was really interesting. After the gardens we went for lunch in a nearby hotel. Sam and I opted for the Sri Lankan set lunch or Dhall, Fish Curry, Brindal, Sambol, Veg Curry and Rice. Soup was included and Ice cream to follow, spicy and nice. The boys were more adventurous and went for a Goofy Burger with Bullseye and a Cheese Burger, what arrived wasn’t quite what they expected!
After lunch we set off upwards, climbing into the hills higher and higher. The roads were a series of switchbacks passing roadside waterfalls all the way. Eventually we reached the new Ramboda Road tunnel, build for free by the South Korean Government I was told in exchange for a deal to send all the used tyres there from Sri Lanka. Judging by the threadbare nature of most of the tyres I have seen the Sri Lankans aren’t sending much their way. Once through the tunnel we pulled over to transfer all the luggage and us into an estate car that took us down a very steep drive to the hotel. The Hotel Ramboda Falls certainly has the setting and the potential to be a really nice place, they’ve even installed a high tower to provide a glass lift down to the floors below reception, the lift has been open two weeks and created a great first impression. State of the art, sparkling clean and obviously a significant investment, we were thinking the hotel owners must be spending some money here to make sure it was worthy of its setting. Sadly the lift must have cost all the money as the family room ‘Rock View’ we were placed in was last decorated in 1982 judging by the dark wood and threadbare curtains. Still it was the biggest suite in the hotel with a separate lounge and two double beds, it also had a perfect view of the waterfall from the windows and balcony. We quickly dumped our stuff and set off for the waterfall along a treacherous muddy path, another area in need of some serious spending unless the aim is to kill of the guests and sell their stuff on Ebay? Eventually we reached the bottom despite the leeches doing their best to grab into Sam’s legs. It is a wonderful sight being stood below a huge waterfall, in the dry season you can climb right down to the pool at the bottom and shower under the falls, in wet season we would never have made it back. Several discarded flip flops were testament to those who has tried and failed.
We made the sweaty climb back to the hotel and sat down in the restaurant for a drink. My first beer for 3 days due to the festival in Kandy making the whole town dry, it was nectar. We pre-ordered dinner from the set menu, everyone opted for fish and chips to follow their spring rolls. After a shower and change we returned for our dinner. Not the best, the breaded fish was burned and the chips over done. We retired to our slightly dank room for the night.
Day 14 A short hop but a long climb
From Ramboda Falls to the next hotel was 15 kilometres Fosan the driver informed us in his broken English over breakfast. Breakfast was a limited affair but made up for last nights horror meal. The toast was thick and lightly done and the omelette was tasty. After our shuttle car crept up the hill never leaving first gear we set off along the main road for the short hop to our next hotel in Nuwara Eliya. Fifteen kilometres with a stop off at a tea factory, we left at 10am so would be there before lunch. The road climbed above the clouds as we weaved our way ever higher. On each side the road was surrounded by endless tea plantations, where Tamil women pick up to 10kg of the finest tea for only 40 rupees a kilo. A days hard graft earns them about £2.30 at the most. We roll into the car park of the Mackwoods Tea Factory. It was a pretty impressive colonial looking tea shop and sale room next to a large factory where the tea is processed. We drank fresh tea, no milk only sugar and ate chocolate cake, oh how very civilised. Next we were given a whistle stop tour of the factory, the processes involved explained clearly. It was an interesting insight into the way tea is made and it is surprising to see how natural a process it is.
Again we climbed higher still, the fields of the Mackwoods plantation stretching endlessly across the hillside. We peaked at only 6382 feet above sea level then followed the short descent into Nuwara Eliya. The town is known as Little England apparently because of the architecture and climate, there is even a golf club here. The town has the first post office built in Sri Lanka, a strange looking red and white brick affair but nevertheless impressive. There is apparently a large ex-pat community here due to the similarity to England and also lots of Sri Lankans visit here from the coast for respite from the heat. Shortly after arrival we sought respite from Shakeer and Fosan, they are lovely guys but sometimes it is nice to have a little time to do as you please. We snuck out of the Hotel Grosvenor only for Fosan to appear to accompany us into town, we insisted he stay and rest after driving, no doubt he’d be in bother later. We took a slow wander into town and visited the park, it was 60 rupees each for Sam and I and 30 rupees for Sid, a total cost of around 80p, double what the locals are charged but at least here they are honest about it and it’s clearly marked on the sign. The boys swung like apes and climbed and slid on the very 1970’s play equipment; I clearly remember some of the equipment being in Harperley Park when I was a kid. After we had braved the municipal toilets (a hole to do your jobs in inside a hut) we set off into the shopping area. We bought some crocodile bread and mystery biscuit/cake thing to munch on, both were pretty stale but it fought off the hunger till dinner time. After buying some nail clippers to remove our dragon like claws we set off back to the less than delightful Hotel Grosvenor. Part way back we heard the inevitable “Ey Frankie!!!” No doubt Fosan had been trawling the streets searching for us after a flea in his ear from Shakeer. Gratefully we hopped into the van for a lift up to the hotel. We didn’t dare shower before dinner as the bathroom was pretty grim, we’d all ordered chicken but didn’t hold out much hope of being satisfied. Surprisingly the French Onion Soup was tasty and the chicken was very tasty with lovely fresh veg (carrot, green beans and potato) followed by ice cream. Nothing too exciting but it satisfied our hunger and was far more edible than we had expected. As night fell it became quite chilly so we attempted to settle down for an early night. It was cold and the slightly grubby bed didn’t really lend itself to a good sleep, the noisy French neighbours also didn’t help as they totally ignored the fact that an adjoining door let all the noise through.
As an aside, ever since the massage and ‘balancing tea’ we had at the herb garden both me and Sam have been piddling none stop, maybe 20-30 times a day though it is slowly lessening. We have also both had pretty vivid dreams each night, tonight Sam recounted her Ramboda Falls experience where a ghostly apparition had floated around the room during the night! Pretty glad we didn’t buy anything now unless the sneaky little get put a hex or curse on us for being tight!
Day 15 To Ella and beyond
Today was supposed to be a short drive of around an hour, though time seems to have no real similarity to what we use in the UK as an hour can be between 50 minutes and 3 hours. After a pretty plain affair of omelette and toast with coffee and hot chocolate we, with some relief, checked out of the hotel and set off. We weren’t really interested in seeing much more of Nuwara Eliya so politely declined Shakeer’s attempts to get us to partake in some activity. After a 90 minute wiggly, bumpy drive across a road that was nowhere near being finished for another 18 months we arrived in Ella. Strangely we went to a completely different Hotel to the one Shakeer had e mailed me in our itinerary. We weren’t there long. The hotel had taken his booking but forgot to mention that there were no drivers rooms provided. The gaffer wasn’t happy and asked if we minded trying somewhere else. After a few unsuccessful attempts at other places he was looking a bit stressed. We suggested we had lunch while he tried some more. Went to the Dream Cafe in Ella, if you ever pass through try it, good pizza and desserts and very reasonable. Shakeer returned mid main course looking glum but by then we had come up with a plan. We suggested he try our next hotel in Tissa the Hibiscus Garden and try to get us in there for an extra night. We’d been talking and thought the idea of 2 nights somewhere to allow us to unpack properly and be a bit more settled would suit us. Plus my under crackers had been ‘drying’ unsuccessfully since Kandy. Thankfully Shakeer seemed quite taken with this idea, he must have liked where we were going next and he soon returned with news that we’d head there for 2 nights instead. It did mean another 1 hour (100mins in reality) drive according to him but we didn’t care. Saw some nice waterfalls on the way as well. Today has been a bit of a trashing travelling day so when we arrived at the Hibiscus Gardens we had all our bits crossed. Thankfully it’s lovely so we got ready and were into the pool by 5pm for an hour and a bit of splashing fun as the sun set.
We headed up to the restaurant, raised up above the rest of the bungalows so it caught a really nice breeze. The fare was the standard buffet fodder we’d become so used to and bored of. If we were never to see a Sri Lankan buffet again after this tour it would be far too soon. After dinner we chatted with Shakeer and despite our wishes to have a pool day he persuaded us to visit a temple nearby as it’s a Poya Day or full moon celebration. We retired to sleep though the third occupant of our bed had other ideas. Frankie was still awake chatting to himself long after Sam and I were catching zee’s. I was prodded and spoken to around 12.15am by him and when I woke for a toilet stop (yes there’s still no end to the urinating) at around 1am he was flat out.
Day 16 Chilling and cooking in one day.
We headed for the delights of breakfast, eggs, toast etc same as every day in one form of another, then readied ourselves for the pool. It was a nice pool and the sun was beating down, no surprise we all had a bit of a pink tinge by lunchtime. We went for lunch in the restaurant, though soon discovered that Shakeer had meant to just meet in the restaurant not eat! My club sandwich was lovely so tough luck. After lunch we set off to see the temples of Katagarma, there is a mosque, bhuddist temple and hindu temple all next to one another. We walked a fair way from the market area to the first temple. Here as always we removed out shoes which Shakeer checked in to a nearby hut to look after. Next was his revenge for us not listening, we were guided quickly thorough the hindu temple and pointed towards the bhuddist one. Off we set along a scorching road in bare feet, it was maybe the longest half mile of my life. My feet weren’t made for stony surfaces so I tried to stick to the sand or paved parts, problem was these were about 60 degrees Celsius. As my feet slowly cooked Sam was losing patience and was close to calling a halt to return to the shoes. By now Frank was in tears and demanded Shakeer carry him, Sid was gamely skipping about in the heat between shady areas, he never really complained which was far better than either Sam or I managed. The temple was shite when we got there, we politely had a quick circuit then began the tortuous return journey. As ever Shaky steamed ahead, only this time he had Frankie clinging on to his back. Several locals looked on incredulously as we pattered by barefoot, even some Sri Lankan kids were reduced to tears and most of the adults put their shoes back on between the temples. I nearly offered a king’s ransom for some skanky flip flops at one point. Once reunited with our footwear we had a quick look in the mosque. Then we headed past the locals swimming in the dirty river to the market area. Here I think Shaky softened his stance as he bought Frankie a football and us some treacle and coconut squidgy stuff to try, it was delicious. Lucky old Fosan had a bag bought for him as well. We returned to the hotel in time for a quick dip before dinner. The plan tonight was to find a hotel with ESPN and watch the match. After I wolfed down some grub I left Sam and the boys and headed out in a tuk-tuk to find the game.
It soon became apparent that there were no hotels that bothered to pay the extra subscription for the sports package, it’s only 1150 rupees (£6.50), as the cricket channels are free to air and that is all they really care about here. We returned in time to catch the family leaving the restaurant. Shaky was sending Fosan for a cake in the morning as it was Frankie’s birthday, we on the other hand were being collected at 5am for our safari of Yala. With that bombshell we all headed to bed early. By 9pm we were all snoring soundly, well I was following the game updated on the kindle between nodding off.
Day 17 Yala safari and home to the bungalow
Fortunately for us the caring folk at home decided to save us the wait for the 4.30am alarm and sent us text messages at 4.28am wishing Frank happy birthday and telling me about the match as seen on Match of the Day, thanks parents and Parkers. We collected out breakfast packs from the hotel and had a quick coffee before clambering aboard a huge old Land Rover modified for the safari trips. It was a good 45min ride to the entrance and when we arrived a little shaken around daylight had just broken. There were literally hundreds of jeeps waiting to enter the park, fortunately we’d got there early enough to avoid the fighting in the queue for tickets! Neither Shaky or the driver had ever seen so many jeeps, the park had reopened today following the elephant audit of the past 3 days so this probably explains it.
We saw several animals on the 6 hour safari. Lots of crocodiles, an elephant, buffalo and several types of birds that were really pretty. The main aim though was the leopard! Despite spending a long time scoping out the area where the leopards hang out and the driver insisting that they were in or under the tree we didn’t see conclusive evidence of the leopards being there. We have some sketchy photos on full zoom of something that might be a leopard but to be honest we can’t say for certain. The only real disappointment of the trip so far really, shame we didn’t see one prowling about. The safari was great other than that and the time had flown over.
We got back to the hotel for a shower and to finish packing to check out. The red dust covering us was soon washed down the plug and we felt clean and fresh if a little tired. We headed over to the restaurant to check out and celebrate the birthday of the big lad. Fosan had bought a nice cake for us, Frankie had balloons and we had tea. So all in all things went well for the 4 year old birthday boy, he had more surprises waiting for him back at the villa.
We set off towards the villa, it was going to be at least a 4 hour drive so we all soon nodded off to catch up on the missed sleep. After a couple of hours we began to stir, well birthday boy didn’t, his only response was “I’ll get up when we stop somewhere” then straight back to sleep. Somewhere near Mirissa we stopped for a toilet break and for Sam to get some snaps of the stilts the fishermen sit on to catch stuff. I popped to the toilet with Frank who had eventually agreed to leave the van. As we left the toilet we sensed some degree of excitement amongst the locals by the beach. As we walked down towards the sea we were greeted with an amazing and hilarious sight. Sam was perched precariously on one of the stilts out to sea! I later saw the photographic evidence that some poor fisherman had hoisted her on his shoulders out there, no wonder he was demanding 3000 rupees! As I took some snaps the fisherman produced a rod and insisted Sam catch a fish. After a few tries she whooped with excitement, dangling on the end of her line was a tiny parrot fish. After being reclaimed from the ocean, slightly wet but obviously buzzing Sam told me she’d agreed a price of 3000 rupees, nearly £20! Bollocks to that, ten minutes of fun and a carry out to sea isn’t worth 3 days wages for these guys. Despite their counter offers and protests of poverty I offered 1000 and said take it or leave it, cheeky sods. Shaky later told us that they are getting used to the Russian tourists who will happily pay $100 a pop. This is more than a week worth of pay for most people! No wonder they see every tourist as a cash cow.
I reckon that the Sri Lankans only look at the amount we are paid in the UK without considering the costs we have to fork out as well. No doubt we are materially far wealthier but the gap maybe isn’t as large as they imagine. Diesel here is 76 rupees a litre, that is about 45p, less than a third of what we pay. A loaf of bread fresh from the bakers is 50 rupees, about 30p, compared to £1.20 or so at home! Text messages are less than half a penny, only 3p to the UK! Not that I’d swap my life for theirs but there isn’t the huge gulf in wealth that the Sri Lankans imagine.
We continued around the south coast seeing the large towns there until we stopped off in Galle, heavily damaged by the tsunami and now being redeveloped with a state of the art bus station and international cricket ground. The old Dutch Fort area was nice, some interesting buildings and quite a clean quaint part of the town. As ever there are people offering all sorts of tourist tat, including the best offer we’ve had yet.... some teenage kid offered to throw himself off the 20m high fort walls into the sea for payment! Sid was mad keen for us to pay him but Sam was having none of it despite his protests of “Madam this is my job, I do all time”. Shame really that we turned him down it would have been funny to see him come a cropper on the rocks, silly bugger!
Before long we were in familiar territory driving through Hikkaduwa, we agreed to stop for food despite being so close to our destination. We returned to Refresh for a nice birthday meal. Sid had spaghetti, Frank pork sausages, Sam seafood pasta with octopus, crab legs and other weird stuff while I eventually gave in and had some pizza, first one this holiday. The food was good but we were tired and ready for home. We made the short 20 minute hop to the villa, unloaded our van and settled in for the night. We’d arranged to meet Shakeer for food on Wednesday night but he seems to think we are spending the day paying Fosan to drive us around, don’t think so. He has also invited us to have dinner at his house on Saturday to watch the match. We were all in bed asleep by 9pm.
Day 18 Recovery
We rose late this morning and spent the day by the pool till mid afternoon. We’ve inflated the battle boards so the lads are happy splashing madly in the pool. After lunch we needed some shopping as Siremel the tuk-tuk driver had brought us some prawns this morning. He brought a huge bag for 1400 rupees, about £7.75, there are maybe 40 prawns in there but here’s the catch, each one is about 8 inches long! Monsters of the deep in our freezer!
In town we asked Siremel to take us for veg and to try some Sri Lankan street food. We had a hopper for the lads and an egg hopper for us, lovely, like a crispy batter bowl but with a crumpet like texture on the thicker bottom. Later on we bought egg rotti and a curry parcel, the boys liked the rotti but the curry parcel was quite fiery so we didn’t let them try it. I think I’m hooked now though! At the vegetable shop (well more poky hole in the wall near the stinky fish alley) we stocked up on tomatoes, garlic, capsicums (half green pepper half spicy chilli) and some potatoes. Cost in the UK maybe £5-6 here 180 rupees, just over £1! See it’s easy to live on a wage of £200 a month with prices this low!
Back home for a chilled evening watching TV and preparing the monster prawns and spaghetti with tomato and garlic. After the boys hit the hay we watched the film Kick Ass on the movie channel, wow I’d never realised what a good film it was or I’d have seen it much earlier.
Day 19 Turtley great
Again we rose late and spent the morning by the pool despite the showers that tried to start. After lunch of ham sandwiches we rang Siremel and asked to go to the turtle farm in his tuk-tuk. The turtles were great, they had 1000’s ready for release each day, one pool had the 1 day old turtles in, they are moved to the 2 day pool then the 3 day pool then released into the wild. We all held the tiny turtles, they are amazingly strong for their size. The sanctuary has an albino turtle and several that have been injured by boats and sharks, these ones cannot be released into the wild. The boys seemed to enjoy seeing them and the water monitors in the stream behind. After this we were taken to see one of the new houses built by Lalith, WOW! I’m not kidding when I say it’s an amazing house. The Koi Carp breakfast area was shady and nice, the pool was enormous and the built in pool bar with stools was a nice feature, we’ve been to hotels with smaller pools. Inside the floors were either polished cement with inlaid plant designs or solid hardwood flooring. The kitchen was a handmade wood affair, not a cheap chatty one though, more bespoke designer finish. Each bedroom was en suite and a/c with some intricate designs in the wall plaster. We were mightily impressed for sure, especially with the beach front location. The price is still a mystery but we’ll no doubt find out soon enough.
Our final visit was to a local shop for some sarongs. I’d wanted one after seeing the local blokes looking cool and well aired walking around. The ones we’d seen in Kandy were a bit pricy at 4000 rupees so I was horror struck when the guy straight away mentioned batik! How much I wondered hesitantly? 750 rupees each, no way Jose! We bought 4 of those ones and one of his more expensive ones for Sam at 1750. I sense an import deal if we have a UK market!!!
After this we headed in the showers to get ready for our trip out to Diya Sisila. This restaurant has only received 5 out of 5 ratings on Trip Advisor so it has a lot to live up to. Siremel took us in his tuk-tuk, it was 30 minutes away inland from Bentota. When we got there the lovely garden was such a tranquil setting we felt guilty taking our noisy boys with us. The chef/owner was lovely as he showed us his boat and the lake behind the restaurant. He claimed to be here to make nice food and live comfortably on his reputation. There were only 5 or 6 tables in the whole place, it appeared that volume wasn’t the aim of the game here. He excused himself as he had to go and cook the food, his brother was in charge of the front of house, he was also a lovely guy. After not too long the boys food arrived, battered fish with chips just as Sam had ordered, this was quickly followed by an alternative type of battered fresh fish with ketchup and marie rose sauce to choose from. We both pinched a taste, the second fresh fish in batter was unbelievably moist and melt in the mouth. Shortly after this our food arrived – a large platter of rice, some daal, some green beans, a potato dish and finally the 2 curries, one fish the other prawn. My word the food was wonderful, the curries were delicious, the food needed little chewing it was cooked perfectly. The flavours were spicy enough but lots of other subtle flavours broke through. Without doubt our best meal of the holidays so far. As a restaurant it was a strange concept, no menu, no beer just tell him what you like or fancy when you book and trust that he is going to make something tasty. The mains which we struggled to finish were followed by a small ice cream dessert. When we asked for the bill it was a mystery what we would be charged, for this service and food it could be anything. Rice and sides were 1500 each, the fish curry 1000 and the prawns 1500, nothing for the dessert or the boys food. A total bill of 5600 plus 600 tip is roughly £35, a bargain. The long tuk-tuk journey home passed without event. Now all we need to do is win the lottery and by one of Lalith’s new houses so we can eat at Diya Sisila every week.
Day 20 What will today bring?
So far today has been all about relaxing by the pool. Playing with the boys and having time to read our books. Lunch in the bungalow always makes things easier, I just need to learn how to move from scrambled egg to making egg rotti!
Well there we go! That's all I can find for now. To round off our trip report we did visit a gem mine the afternoon of day 20. It was again an interesting experience seeing how the semi precious stones are recovered, Sirimel warned us in the tuk tuk that there would be some hard sell tactics in the shop afterwards and that he could probably get us things cheaper away from the mine. The rings were as ever of interest to Sam, but even she saw the scam in operation where a moonstone ring was over £100 compared to about £30 back home in the UK. We were invited out to eat tonight to Shakeer's family home. It was lovely to meet his wife and baby daughter, she was so beautiful and tiny. A veritable feast of food had been prepared for us. As is customary the guests eat first, while of course watching the Sunderland - Newcastle match on tv! We were barely able to make a dent in the range of curries, bbq chicken, rice dishes, juices etc. We tried to eat as much as we could to please our hosts but there was simply mountains of food. We had taken a fruit basket as we had been told it was a traditional gift to give when visiting.
The kids were great, disappearing off in a tuk tuk with a relative to tour the neighbourhood much to Sam's horror. They were very well mannered and made friends with Shakeer's niece and nephew. At the end of a lovely night Fowsan drove us home with said niece and nephew in tow, all four kids crashed in the van. Sid wanted to give his Sunderland shirt to his new friend and Sam gave a necklace to Shakeer's niece.
Day 21 again was spent relaxing and packing. We had arranged to visit Diya Sisila restaurant again to finish the holiday in style. This second visit we were to arrive earlier as the owner wanted us to take a ride on the lake by the restaurant. As you can see from the photos above the scenery was lovely, the flower given to Sam by the boatman was beautiful and the boys enjoyed it no end. No crocodiles unfortunately though!
The meal was again top quality, the owner had hired in music to play for us, a special place to eat. We had the restaurant to ourselves for most of the night. I can't remember now the bill, it was about the same as last time only the 'tip' for the boatman and musicians was extra. This time we were given a little parcel of goodies to take away, fruit and other delicious foods. I cannot recommend the restaurant highly enough.
Day 22 saw us being picked up early by Shakeer to be taken north of Columbo to stay in a little guesthouse on the coast near the airport. It took a little finding in the back streets! We stopped in Colombo to buy Sri Lanka cricket shirts for the lads on the way. We ate in the guesthouse and retired early for our 4am airport drop off. I will try hard to find the name of the guesthouse and add it later.
The flight home was uneventful on the fabulous Oman Air, we did stop off at Male in the Maldives this time.
We landed in Heathrow tired and sad to have left such a wonderful country and people behind. Tomorrow we were heading to LEGOLAND to finish a wonderful adventure.
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